Garage door replacement

[twhite]

My garage door died a few months ago. I finally decided to replace it. Going with blocking 4” on each side and put 2 4 foot swinging doors in. That way I can gain a few extra feet of wall space. Also when I install new lighting I will get better coverage.

I bonded some pressure tested wood to the floor so I could fasten the walls in. I did not want to lag them in. So took the glue route.

There is MAJOR cleaning, chucking and organizing to be done in that mess. A little bit at a time.

Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[benmychree]

Lookslike 10 lbs in a 5 lb box!

 

[twhite]

Lookslike 10 lbs in a 5 lb box!

That about sums it up.


Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[mmcmdl]

Amatuer . I still see a walking path thru . A genuine pro can get 15 lbs. in a 5lb. box as John said .

 

[rwdenney]

If the glue doesn’t hold, you can always drill a hole for tap-con screws through the sole plate later.

If you sheath the exterior with plywood or good chip-board, you’ll add a lot of strength to the structure. Garages with really narrow wing walls are subject to eventually fail from lack of lateral strength around the door opening.

Rick “who has filled a 40x60 shop with what used to be in a 24x28 garage” Denney

 

[twhite]

If the glue doesn’t hold, you can always drill a hole for tap-con screws through the sole plate later.

If you sheath the exterior with plywood or good chip-board, you’ll add a lot of strength to the structure. Garages with really narrow wing walls are subject to eventually fail from lack of lateral strength around the door opening.

Rick “who has filled a 40x60 shop with what used to be in a 24x28 garage” Denney

Yes I will be sheathing the ends with board. This is what I am picking up today.
I made sure to shim the framing in nice and tight. Hopefully that will help support everything. I also doubled up on 2x4 on the ends of the frame. For added strength and a nice wide foundation to mount the hinges.

First carpentry project I have done. So it will be interesting to see how it turns out.

Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[woodchucker]

Yes I will be sheathing the ends with board. This is what I am picking up today.
I made sure to shim the framing in nice and tight. Hopefully that will help support everything. I also doubled up on 2x4 on the ends of the frame. For added strength and a nice wide foundation to mount the hinges.

First carpentry project I have done. So it will be interesting to see how it turns out.

Cutting oil is my blood.

I would have recommended a 2x4 header across the entire top. That way you can close against the header and get it lined up. Too late, but it offers a way for the door to stop and not swing into the garage.

 

[francist]

Looks great for a first project! Looks like it will be nice and solid for you too. One thing I do (probably just out of habit) is try to get my shims a close as I can to being over a bearing. That way there’s not as much chance for things to slacken off as much over time. I’m sure you’ll be good though, there’s not a lot of span to worry about.

Good job!

 

[twhite]

I would have recommended a 2x4 header across the entire top. That way you can close against the header and get it lined up. Too late, but it offers a way for the door to stop and not swing into the garage.

I was going to add that. I did not as I have not yet decided on how I want to lay the door frames out. Same as stud walls or lay flat to have door depth 1-1/2. Suggestions on how to make the doors would be very much appreciated.


Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[twhite]

Looks great for a first project! Looks like it will be nice and solid for you too. One thing I do (probably just out of habit) is try to get my shims a close as I can to being over a bearing. That way there’s not as much chance for things to slacken off as much over time. I’m sure you’ll be good though, there’s not a lot of span to worry about.

Good job!

I will add more shims next to studs. Thanks for the suggestion.


Cutting oil is my blood.