Good (cheap) source for nozzles?

WobblyHand

WobblyHand

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Thought I might get some spare nozzles and experiment with various sizes. I don't have any spare nozzles. Any local(ish) sources that are decent and not expensive? Or should I just go to AliExpress and wait (awhile)? Seem to be pretty inexpensive there.

Or are these cheapo nozzles a problem?
 
What do you want to use it for, water, oil, air snow making?
More information is needed
 
I used to get the expensive Swiss Micro nozzles for my creator pro. Each lasted about a month before cleaning clogs became more of a pain that the price of a nozzle.

After trying the cheapo's from Ebay and Amazon, I discovered that for me, they work just as well and last just as long.


Printing all my Voron parts hady Creator Pro running 24/7 for weeks. I started going through lots of nozzles and Teflon liners.


When I got my Voron finished and running in early December, I ordered this v6 nozzle kit for the Voron and a similar mk10 kit for my Flashforge.

XIFOWE E3D Nozzles 25 pcs 0.4mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09STLP743?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It comes with 25, 0.4mm nozzles. So far, I'm still using the first nozzle! With ABS, PLA and PETG it's printing just as good as the expensive nozzles.

Definitely not local though..
 
Last edited:
Ken226 said:
I used to get the expensive Swiss Micro nozzles for my creator pro. Each lasted about a month before cleaning clogs became more of a pain that the price of a nozzle.

After trying the cheapo's from Ebay and Amazon, I discovered that for me, they work just as well and last just as long.


Printing all my Voron parts hady Creator Pro running 24/7 for weeks. I started going through lots of nozzles and Teflon liners.


When I got my Voron finished and running in early December, I ordered this v6 nozzle kit for the Voron and a similar mk10 kit for my Flashforge.

XIFOWE E3D Nozzles 25 pcs 0.4mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09STLP743?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It comes with 25, 0.4mm nozzles. So far, I'm still using the first nozzle! With ABS, PLA and PETG it's printing just as good as the expensive nozzles.

Definitely not local though..
Click to expand...
What I meant by local was locally shipped. AliExpress is the cheapest but surely takes the longest. And it's hard if there's a problem. I'm ok with Amazon or Ebay. There's no doubt that nearly all this stuff is coming from China. Good to know that cheapo nozzles work fine.
 
brino said:
....but it is in the "3D Printers" forum ;)

(I don't always see the forum name either when I get there from "New Posts")

Brian
Click to expand...
I did think this was a legitimate question for this sub forum and people could take context from the forum it was posted in. What I didn't know was the subforum wasn't prominent. Live and learn. I'll be more careful next time ;)
 
I didn't realize I was in the sub forum, I just hit new posts and go rom there, I guess I'll have to pay more attention in the future
 
The assorted nozzles came in. This will keep me in business for a while. I really wanted to try out the wider nozzles to cut down print time on bigger pieces. Came with 2 x 0.2mm, about 20 x 0.4mm, 2 x 0.6mm, 2 x 0.8mm, and 2 x 1.0mm nozzles and some decloggers and a funky wrench. Price was ok. I'll try them out sometime.
 
WobblyHand said:
Thought I might get some spare nozzles and experiment with various sizes. I don't have any spare nozzles. Any local(ish) sources that are decent and not expensive? Or should I just go to AliExpress and wait (awhile)? Seem to be pretty inexpensive there.

Or are these cheapo nozzles a problem?
Click to expand...
I use MK8 hardened steel cheapy nozzles. The trick is to have .4mm drill bits and .4mm needles. The cheapy nozzles come slightly undersized. I manually increase the undersized nozzle with a .4mm drill bit then verify by running a .4mm needle up the nozzle hole. The trick to great finishes is canola oil. Put an oiler on the filament feed. I also use .072" brass rod. A few times in every roll i do a load of the filament at 250C and pull it out during the load to clear any accumulated crap. I then remove the tensioning arm, wipe the rod with canola oil I hen run it down to the nozzle to push out any filament that is still in the nozzle and may have be hanging around at print temp and become a problem. I pull the rod recoat with canola oil and run it up and down the feed path until it moves smoothly. I now have a lubricated path and a seasoned nozzle that is better than new. I reassemble and print.

I have found print quality is all about lubrication and it makes a very large difference. The nozzles and heatsinks not so much.
 
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