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Grizzly Heavy Duty Tool Room Grinder Re-Work

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Janderso

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#1
This is not a new subject. These grinders are known for their poor quality wheels and sticking tool rests.
I replaced the grinding wheels with one diamond and one good quality “green wheel”.
I followed the advice from YouTube to make this Baldor knock off worth a darn.
Squaring the protractors, removing paint where it contacts the sliding protractors, removing burs and providing clearance where. Required.
I assumed, “type 50” grinding wheels would fit this machine since the manual’s Instructions did not say, modifications required. No, I had to remove about .010” from the aluminum backing plate on the well made diamond wheel. I also had to increase the ID of the CGW wheel for proper mounting clearance.
Just be aware, I was expecting to perform these upgrades. I have a very smooth, capable machine now.
I saved hundreds of $$$$&$ but I did have to spend a few hours on it.
 

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RandyM

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#2
Great post! Thank you.
 

FOMOGO

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#3
Well done. Kieth Fenner has a good video on this. Mike
 

westerner

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#4
Very nice. I hope to find one like that one day. All that import stuff anymore is bought in "kit" form, huh? Good work!
 

Janderso

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#5
I must be honest. Shadon HKW, otherwise known as the “Bash” host, did a repair on his baldor 510 tool room grinder.
He made a tool path on the grinder and surfaced his grinder wheel backing plate at 3,500 rpm.
I am obsessive compulsive, I noticed a bit of runout on my cheap Baldor knock off and decided to surface my face plate just like my YouTube Mentor.
It was 5:45AM, the screeching howl was so loud it reminded me of a concert in the 70’s where I was lucky enough to stand right next to the speaker mountain.
My wife came running out of the bedroom out of a sound sleep!
“Are you out of your f#$@;!!ing mind??
I have to tell you, the runout is gone!
I clamped a parallel to the cast iron table. Used one of my Phase II QCTP holders and HSS bit.
I probably should have used carbide. But, it worked. My ears are still ringing.
I overheard my wife talking to my oldest son, “he gets up at 3:00 and goes out to his shop, he goes to work at 5:30. When he gets home, he changes his clothes, goes out to the shop until dinner. After he eats, he goes out to the shop until bed time”
My son said, yep, sounds like Pop.
 

C-Bag

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#6
Thanks for the tip on Shadon HKW vid. I recently picked up an HF version of this same grinder and just like Shadon I faced up the hub on the lathe and still have runout. I will have to come up a tool path too to true up the one hub on the machine. I guess it doesn't make me feel so bad about my knockoff that he had to do that on a Baldor.

I had quite a time getting the wheels and hubs balanced on mine. The hub that came with it was incredibly out of balance and I needed a new miter gage so I ordered a hub too from Grizzley. The new one was better balanced but incredibly the bolt pattern was a little off! The center of the hub was good fit though. It also came with a nice diamond wheel. Another one to add to my ever expanding HF collection. But $135 I couldn't pass it up. Love me some CL.
 
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Janderso

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#7
Yes, the bolt hole pattern and the cheap shouldered screws with the Allen mounting holes are also not centered on the screw face.
If I could find a metric shouldered bolt that size I would replace them.
Incredible workmanship, NOT!
 

Bob Korves

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#8
Yes, the bolt hole pattern and the cheap shouldered screws with the Allen mounting holes are also not centered on the screw face.
If I could find a metric shouldered bolt that size I would replace them.
Incredible workmanship, NOT!
The fix is to abandon the existing bolt pattern and make an accurate new bolt pattern in between. First true up and balance the entire wheel so it spins true and without vibration. To back up even further, first take off both wheel assemblies down to the bare spindle and make sure it spins true. Start with the basics, like I should have when writing this post... ;)
 
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