heavy 10 spindle bearings

O

oscer

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Maybe it's just me but it seems that frequently,I get chatter on a turning that seems to be comming directly from the spindle bearings. I don't have a dial test indicator that reads .0001s so I used an indicator that reads .001 and pulled real hard on a broom stick that was sticking thru the spindle it showed only .001 movement. I would like to buy a good test indicator and check this out again. So my question to you south bend owners is: do you feel under machined by these old cast iron type spindle bearings?(mine is a1943 model). If I do see more than .0013 of movement with a better indicator can I take shims out and be back in business? If any of you have any comments on this topic I would like to hear them. Thanks oscer
 
Mumbles is correct, as a mater of fact South Bend says to check both the front spindle bearing and the REAR spindle bearing the same way but I don't think they had a broom handle in mind since you should put about 75 lbs of force on the spindle bearings.

Pat
 
Yea I read that you should put 75 lbs of force I think it said at 18 inches from the bearing with a test indicator on the spindle. It does always sound like it's comming from the rear bearing. I ran it for acouple of hrs. today with no hint of the problem. maybe it just happens when for whatever reason the oil film between the spindle and bearings hasn't come up to pressure yet.I just don't know.
So what did you do to correct the problem with the rear bearing Mumbles?
 
Thanks Mumbles, Yea they're cast iron I think. there is nothing between the cap and the spindle or the spindle and the head stock. There are both brass shims and paper shims under the caps. I think before I start removing any shims I'm going to invest in a test indicator, its something I've been wanting to buy anyway. and do the 75 lb test again then go from there. I like the idea about cig. papers. they would make some fine adjustments. I did replace the felts when I first bought the lathe.Thanks again for the advise. oscer
 
Hi fellas, the UPS man just dropped off a Mitutoyo 513-104 this morning so I put it on the outboard end of my spindle and it showed .0026" of slop when I pulled real hard on a broom handle ( I keep one setting by the lathe to knock out the MT adapter). I'm not sure how to apply 75# of force here, maybe with a torque wrench and some kind of adapter, or possibly with a hanging type scale. At any rate I just lifted up on the broom handle till the indicator stopped moving. When I checked it a couple of months ago with a .001 res. indicator it only showed .001" of movement. I also pushed down and it only moved a couple of tenths. didn't check the other end yet no time today. Just did this quickly cause of curiosity. I assume if I remove shims to close the gap here I should remove them from both sides of the bearing.
 
Knudsen, good plan some times the simple solutions never occur to me :-[

Jim, I had the same problem,it was so loosse Icoud turn it with my fingers. Tightening it helped but I still need to do the bearing job.
 
knudsen link=topic=763.msg5504#msg5504 date=1298732870 said:
I would use a pipe with 3ft extending past the spindle and put 25# of bar bell weight on the end.
Click to expand...

You have to lift the bar to check the bearings. What you suggest won't lift the spindle to check the bearings. I am in the process of replacing the shims on my spindle bearing caps and had to climb on top of my chip pan to get 75# of lift on the bearings. I guess I'll work off of a ladder to do the rear bearing. BTW there was only 1 original shim left on either bearing caps, the rest had been replaced with five .006 shim stock on each side. I got it back down to one .006, one .002 and one .001 on each side of the front bearing.
 
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Your right Blackhorse, I realized that after I got off line and thought about the weight and pipe. When I pushed down on the spindle It only moved a couple of tenths but when I lifted it it moved the .0026"
Did you get yours to work properly? I guess if you run out of shims you could remove stock from the bottom of the flat surface of the bearing cap.
 
No worries, I have plenty of shim stock, just tiring on the hands to cut the stuff.LOL I'm cutting shims by tracing the old shim on the new shim with a carbide scribe and breaking on the scribe line. I have the rear to do yet, when I find time to get back out there.

Pat
 
I found a scale that I can borrow to do the job. I'm anxious to see the results, this is the biggest issue I have with the lathe so far. Hoping for happy turning after I make the adjustment :)
 
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