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Budget 0% for Chinese stuff.
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Help me blow a bunch of $$$
- Thread starter K30
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- Feb 25, 2021
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Since you said mitre, I'm *guessing* your thinking horizontal bandsaw. I use a G0613 from Grizzly which I really like, although not quite 10". They make bigger model$. I like the swivel head for easy mitre cuts. I cut long stock, and have a 8' roller feed table, so the angling the stock type arrangement doesn't work well. Grizzly does OK with this type of equipment, I'd go PM for a lathe or mill.
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- Jan 2, 2019
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If I had a generous budget for a milling machine I'd go with Wells-Index.
www.wells-index.com
John
Vertical Milling — Wells-Index Milling Machines
www.wells-index.com
John
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- Sep 29, 2017
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I’m glad to see your hard work is paying off, and you are in the right place for help with spending your money!
For the three jaw chuck, I would recommend something with removable top jaws. That gives you the flexibility of making soft jaws when you need something that won’t mare the work, or if you have a special shape that needs holding. Changing the jaws from the small diameter orientation to larger diameters is quick too, usually faster than changing the solid jaws. I have a 5” Bison I bought back when they were cheap and it is great. They are on the expensive side now, but worth the money. Another Polish brand to look at is TMX.
For tooling, instead of buying everything you think you will need, it might be better to buy based on what projects you have coming up. If buying new, you can get just about anything you need in a couple days from the tooling vendors. With your size lathe, you can use just about anything you want. I have inserts for steel as well as aluminum, I have zero interest in grinding tools when I can just pop in an insert. The only time I grind something is when I need a form tool. My lathe is much smaller than yours, so I am using positive rake inserts, but I have been switching over to CCMT style tooling since one tool can turn and face, and they are used on boring bars as well. You can use the capabilities of negative rake inserts, so you might want to use those for your normal turning and then have some positive rake tooling if you turn thin pieces to reduce deflection. Carbide boring bars are a huge increase in cost over steel, so you might want to save that for when you really need the rigidity for deep bores and start with standard bars. I have a variety of brands of toolholders, but the TMX brand seems to be a nice value level, good quality, but not Kennemetal prices.
I agree with you about R8 spindles and for my next mill would be looking at getting a different taper. Sharp has knee mills with NT40 taper. Eisen also has NT40 taper spindle machines.
For the three jaw chuck, I would recommend something with removable top jaws. That gives you the flexibility of making soft jaws when you need something that won’t mare the work, or if you have a special shape that needs holding. Changing the jaws from the small diameter orientation to larger diameters is quick too, usually faster than changing the solid jaws. I have a 5” Bison I bought back when they were cheap and it is great. They are on the expensive side now, but worth the money. Another Polish brand to look at is TMX.
For tooling, instead of buying everything you think you will need, it might be better to buy based on what projects you have coming up. If buying new, you can get just about anything you need in a couple days from the tooling vendors. With your size lathe, you can use just about anything you want. I have inserts for steel as well as aluminum, I have zero interest in grinding tools when I can just pop in an insert. The only time I grind something is when I need a form tool. My lathe is much smaller than yours, so I am using positive rake inserts, but I have been switching over to CCMT style tooling since one tool can turn and face, and they are used on boring bars as well. You can use the capabilities of negative rake inserts, so you might want to use those for your normal turning and then have some positive rake tooling if you turn thin pieces to reduce deflection. Carbide boring bars are a huge increase in cost over steel, so you might want to save that for when you really need the rigidity for deep bores and start with standard bars. I have a variety of brands of toolholders, but the TMX brand seems to be a nice value level, good quality, but not Kennemetal prices.
I agree with you about R8 spindles and for my next mill would be looking at getting a different taper. Sharp has knee mills with NT40 taper. Eisen also has NT40 taper spindle machines.
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- Nov 14, 2020
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TAZmachinery in Cleveland Ohio sells the finest rebuilt Bridgeport you can buy.
Actually better when you consider their accuracy is better through more precise slide fit.
They have other equipment available definitely worth a look
Actually better when you consider their accuracy is better through more precise slide fit.
They have other equipment available definitely worth a look
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2022
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- 144
I’m a little late in responding but sharing a few of my thoughts since I just bought a new mill and have a few mills of different sizes you might be considering. I’ve included a few pictures of the machines and the tooling to give a perspective on size.
In defense of R8 tooling, no it is not as ridged but if you keep stick-out and reach to a reasonable amount and if the machine and taper are in good shape, it is not a bad match for the rigidity of a Bridgeport-size machine. For many smaller or even precision operations I kind of prefer it. The machine of this size is easier to work with.
The Acra that I bought new is an R8. I’m really happy with this machine both in terms of quality and accuracy. I’ve also included a picture of my Birmingham mill. It is about the size of the Acra. I’m getting it ready to sell – too many mills.
I’ve had the Vectrax for a few years. It is a 40 taper with a nearly 4” quill, 5 hp, and weighing close to 3,500 lbs. It is more capable in terms of cutting and size of work, but the tooling is heavier, more expensive, and larger to store.
The next one is a Sajo, which is a high quality Swedish machine. It weighs about as much as the other two put together. It has a 50 taper, a 10 hp and nearly an 8” quill. It is more rigid and more capable, but the tooling is really heavy and more time consuming to change.
I also included a picture of my horizontal mill. One thing to keep in mind is if you have the room, you might want to consider a smaller Bridgeport-size vertical mill and a heavier horizontal or vertical mill which can be fairly cheap. My horizontal mill has a 50 taper and at 5,000 lbs. is capable of removing a decent amount of metal.
If you are wanting a vertical mill that would be a good match for the size of your lathe, I think it would more closely pair with the R8 Acra.
I wasn’t sure how much detail you might want, but if you have any questions, just ask.
I’ve also included some pictures of the tooling and draw bars of these machines. The large drawbar in the picture is for the horizontal mill. The Sajo’s drawbar is actually bigger (but decided not to pull it just for a picture.)
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- Sep 28, 2013
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here are some toolholders and boring bars for sale
Loads of other types of tooling too. I even have a right angle head, arbor and arbor support to turn a Bridgeport into a horizontal mill
Loads of other types of tooling too. I even have a right angle head, arbor and arbor support to turn a Bridgeport into a horizontal mill