Help setting up enco 105-1117

PrototypeMonster

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Hi guys. I recently purchased a second-hand enco mill, model number 105-1117. Brought it to my shop and have been cleaning it, prepping it for final install but I have some questions, hopefully you guys can give me some guidance.

1. Where can I buy handwheels for the X, Y and Z axes? I have the oem ones but they're very beat up and I'd like to have a nice looking machine in the shop. I found some alternate handwheels in halder and kippusa but they would require machining the keyways.

2. Where can I buy the proper accordion way cover for it? one of the employees that was cleaning the machine made a bad call and threw the old one away so now I don't have geometry to copy or reference. If this is a universal part, any guidance on width/length is very much appreciated.

3. I have the oem stand, which I have sanded and repainted, however I'd also like to add some type of buffer board between the stand and the vinyl flooring. what do you guys recommend? I bought a piece of 2' x 4' handy board and was going to cut to size. if you guys can recommend a better alternative I can return this no problem.

btw, some of the shop setups you guys have are amazing. thanks in advance for your comments, i look forward to learning from you all.

Tony
prototype monster

machine model stamp
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mill 1.JPG

mill 2.JPG

refinished stand
stand.JPG


the piece of wood i bought.
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darkzero

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Congrats & welcome to H-M.

I purchased Flair cast iron handwheels to replace my stock phenolic ones. The spline drive is really quick & easy to machine if you have a rotary table. But even if you don't have a RT it can still be done. I remember seeing a video on YT where someone showed how. The only other option for a bolt on solution is to buy replacement handwheels from a Grizzly mill.

Mcmaster sells the accordian style way covers. I think there were other cheaper places but I'm don't remember who. Hopefully someone will chime in.

As for the stand, you could use leveling feet or just machinery pads. Big box hardware stores sell pads for washers & dryers, not sure how stiff they are though. I built a riser & used leveling feet. Mill doesn't need to be leveled but can be a benefit. My garage floor isn't level so the leveling feet fixed that.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-pm45m-pdf.9885/page-5#post-265352

Img_0848.jpg Img_0864.jpg Img_0884.jpg Img_0872.jpg IMG_20121122_132005.jpg
 

darkzero

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How to machine the spline for the handwheel.

 

mikey

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That is a Chinese-made RF-30/31 clone. The Rong-Fu versions were made in Taiwan.

The way covers were attached to the base of the column and the rear of the table with a simple folded over piece of sheet metal that pinched a 1/8" thick neoprene sheet. Two holes are tapped in the head and rear of the table to hold that folded piece of steel. Simple to make. The metal piece is 1-1/2" wide X 11-1/2" long. Fold it over and trap some neoprene sheet inside. Drill holes to match the holes in the castings and it works. The neoprene folds up, resists oil and cleans fast. Accordian type way covers are a pain to clean.

The hand wheels on these machines had a sloppy fit but they work. You can either refinish them or get all fancy-like as Will did. I like his version better.

You should either put machine leveling pads or leveling casters under the stand. The mill doesn't need to be level but it does need to be very stable, with weight evenly distributed so that the mill won't move in use. If you have the need to move the mill from time to time then I suggest leveling casters. The best of the breed are Carrymaster casters, at least in my opinion, and the AC-300's would work well for you. If the mill will not need to be moved then run of the mill leveling feed will do fine. Just don't sit the base flat on a piece of wood because that is not going to be stable enough.
 
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