Help wiring a Dayton motor SB9A

[Shackelford R]

Ok so I need a little help the South bend 9A that followed me home was overhauled not painted (although I should have but no space, I installed a South bend switch and got away from the floppy pole with a switch. I found 1 black wire taped off and the Green wire (Ground or Neutral) coming from the outlet wire, there are 6 black wires coming out of the motor. Also there are multiple wires in the wire nuts some have 3. I just want it wired properly. I wired the barrel switch as it came apart same with outlet plug, I replaced both the 6 conductor wire and the wire to the wall. I used very heavy gauge wire for both (what I could get). I will try to include pics and sorry for the terminology I am no electrician. How is this suppose to be wired correctly? It did run before.

 

[markba633csi]

Hi, let me peruse your pictures and I'll post back
Do you want to wire it up with the drum switch or without? In either case, we need to identify the leads. Do you have a multimeter available?
Have you examined the motor leads closely? It looks like the numbers were printed on the wires and some may still be visible.
If you can make out any that would help.
-Mark

 

[Shackelford R]

Yes I want to wire in the drum switch I already wired it in just like the old one but I am not sure if its's technically correct but it did work (meaning old switched when it was plugged in). I do have a multi meter, and only 3 are marked and sort of legible. The yellow wire nut on the left of back of the motor going to pink wire one is marked T2. the taped up wire is labeled P2 and the yellow wire nut right side bottom that comes from the power cord is labeled T4 I think its hard to read. Thanks for your time Mark.

 

[markba633csi]

OK Is there a diagram of the drum switch contacts? Usually it's inside the cover
I can't quite piece it together from the photos, we will need to do a couple tests with your meter to be certain
I think it would be faster and more efficient to just disconnect everything and start from scratch. Keep track of the taped wire labeled P2, put a masking tape label on it- disconnect all the other 6 motor wires.
1) Put your meter on ohms and start probing pairs of wires starting with P2. There should be one other wire (and only one other) that gives continuity, that will be P1.
Find it and label it clearly.
2) Then, find two other pairs that each give a steady low resistance reading, less than 10 ohms each pair. Label them pair a and pair b. These are the two run windings. If you can see any numbering on the wires themselves then make more legible masking tape labels for those.
3) Now, you should have one last pair that gives a low reading then climbs toward infinite ohms. Reverse the test leads, the reading should repeat
That is your start leg T5 and T8. Label them, doesn't matter which is which.
Let me know when you get to this point, or if any of this is confusing

-Mark

 

[Shackelford R]

It ran fine, essentially I'm installing new wires and questioning the way it was wired. I'm guessing if I wire it in same way and fix ground it will be good. But there are 7 wires coming out of the motor, is the 7th one that is taped up the ground or should I ground to case?

 

[Shackelford R]

If it was 6 wires coming out of the motor I would just find the pairs and make sure they are correct but the 7th wire confuses me.

 

[markba633csi]

Well, if the taped up wire is P2 and is not connected then it is not wired correctly and the thermal overload is bypassed. I would recommend tracing out the wires to be sure but it's up to you
-M

 

[Shackelford R]

Yeah I need to trace all wires, I might do that this evening. and try to figure it out the ordered pairs for hi and low.

 

[Shackelford R]

Just traced all the wires coming out of the motor and found another marking. P2 was taped up, Pink,T3, and an unmarked were tired together with a yellow wire nut. Nothing at the black wire going to wall outlet. All I figured out so far. Its weird to me I remember in a 6 wire there would be 3 pairs but since this is 7 I'm kind of lost.

T4 Green to T3 2.25 Ohms
Gray to P2 .12 Ohms
Pink to Gray 2.30 Ohms
Pink to P2 2.30 Ohms

Correct me if I'm wrong but my P2, Pink and gray are 1 coil with the overload?
T4 and T3 are the other coil?
So the Black from the wall outlet and T8are the capacitor but even when I reverse my meter Leeds I beeps for a second than nothing.

 

[markba633csi]

Grey might be P1 and the reading is somewhat high. It may be the thermal is faulty and the previous owner bypassed it on purpose.
I would say at this point if it seems to be working then call it good, button it up and make chips. I thought perhaps it wasn't working at all.
Was there a contact diagram in the switch cover? I was curious about that. There are two basic styles of drum switch, not sure which flavor you have there
It would help explain the hookup if we could see that
Yes T3 and T4 are one run winding,
P1 and T2 are the other one. Not sure if P1 is grey or pink.
Your meter beep is correct, the beep is the low resistance then it climbs. With a needle meter you see a swing low then high
-M
Remember though you won't get valid tests if some wires are still wirenutted together- they have to be separated to make hide or hare of it