HEY LOOK WHAT I JUST SNAGGED

riversidedan

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
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Feb 17, 2021
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been looking for one of these heavy duty presses and finally found one 30 miles away..........its old and funky and needs to be taken apart and a good cleaning but will be a good solid machine. I have a side cutter and need to remove some rust and crude, what do u guys suggest, maybe a wire brush attachment??
>>>>>>only bad part is one of the lugs on the base is broke off ,so am thinking about hacking the other side off so itll sit flat and dont know anyone with a welder, its just cast iron.
 

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Nice find. Consider using rags saturated in Evaporust. Let them sit awhile, wrapped in something like saran wrap. If it's more than surface rust, then something more aggressive will be necessary.
 
Where is the foot broken off? Can you form a new one with JB weld? Maybe drill/tap the broken area for a good stud to support the epoxy?

Cast iron takes special treatment but it can be fixed if you go the brazed/weld route.

I’m worried if you just cut another foot off that your press will sit at a strange angle. Might be better to try to replace the broken foot or steady it in some other way. (Drill down through whats left. Tap and thread a bolt down through to the floor. Adjust until level?)

I 2nd the evaporust idea although I’m not sure how it reacts to chrome. Is your main tube just steel or chromed?
 
Referring to the main mounting pole. Looks maybe chrome?
F99DEAD3-A321-4FC8-AEED-45DC3AC9DE3E.jpeg
 
The picture sure looks like it, but I don't think that column is chromed. I have a delta/rockwell drill that's pretty darned close to this one, that column is not chromed. It had that same look about it. I think it's the picture. The column is also not very hard. I'd avoid the wire wheel. I used scotch brite and oil when I cleaned mine up.
 
Roger, not chrome lol

I like evaporust or electrolysis for rust removal because it shouldn't 'move' the good metal around. For example, you shouldn't have any raised areas on your column to cause issued during table movement etc. Abrasive rust removal and roughen the surface thus raising it in some areas.

You can tape together a cardboard box that's close to the size of the parts and put a garbage bag in it to fill with evaporust. That way you don't need as much liquid.

Either way, I think the painted areas look ok. I like the old patina myself. Were you planning on total tear down to rebuild the quill etc? If so you could address the indivitual pieces as necessary.

Nice old drill :encourage:
 
Hi Dan.
You should know that you can weld cast iron. You may not need to, if you go to the various suggestions for repair or work-around are OK for you.
There are some trick low temperature melting aluminum alloy rods that can make a "brazed" sort of repair, but the real deal are nickel alloy rods.

There is the alloy ENiFe-CI type, also known as ENi99, which is almost pure nickel 85% to 99%
It resists carbon absorptoin, so the weld remains soft. They are expensive!
E-rods are stick welding rods, considered good for tackling cast iron, though folk also use MIG and TIG if they get the right wire or feed rod.

Commonly, the 55%, or 65% nickel alloys are used. Welding cast iron is searchable.

Although there are some who can, apparently, weld direct on cold cast iron, or fill a ground out crack, without pre-heating, the known method is to pre-heat the part, though not up to red, but enough to minimise the temperature difference stresses between the hot weld and the work. Heating, and then a quick final surface clean with wire brush or grind, and then put on the weld. If you have quite a lot to build up, then let that heat spread in stages. Keeping it hot on a camping gas burner is another trick some do.

It seems there is value in not letting the melt have enough time for a lot of carbon to migrate into your new metal. Also, when done, put it into a can of wood ash, and cover over, and leave to cool slowly. None of these ways are a "must", but there are lots who have successfully welded cast iron. In the case of your part, it may be "cast semi-steel", which fares somewhat better when welded.

Here is something from This Old Tony, but there are lots of others.

 
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