HF 4x6 bandsaw working out well

Thanks for the oil advice. What about blade recommendations?
 
Differential gear oil is fine. The odd diff has some brass in it. You'll likely won't get any industrial gear oil, the ones with EP in their numbers are the brass gear eaters, EP 220. I use Lucas 75-140 syn. in just about everything, including my truck.
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
Differential gear oil is fine. The odd diff has some brass in it. You'll likely won't get any industrial gear oil, the ones with EP in their numbers are the brass gear eaters, EP 220. I use Lucas 75-140 syn. in just about everything, including my truck.
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I would be careful with that line of thinking. Most diff gear oils have EP modifiers, which is what is harmful to the brass products. Here is a good article.

article on gear oils, and brass

With all the brass & bronze in many of my power tools, I have looked into this subject quite a bit over the years. I find it interesting that very few products will say they will not harm brass products. A search of Lucas's web site, only reveals the industrial line of gear oils as safe for brass. They imply it in some others, but will not state it.

Here is a better over article on gear oils, which puts several through a bunch of standard tests.

Study of automotive gear lubes.

The more one researches, the more frustrating things get. I like your idea of one lube for just about everything, I used to worry about viscosity, but now I don't think it is as important as other factors.
 
I use Lenox Bi-Metal blades from MSC when they have a good sale going on. The supercut blades from Harbor Freight are pretty good too(USA Made Mom and Pop business), but quite expensive. I use variable pitch 14-18 for general use.

Roy
 
Thanks again for all the input. I'll be putting my HF 4x6 band saw together this week.
 
Another good addition is to drill and tap some holes so you can use your mill clamping kit to hold odd or small parts you can't hold in the vise it works great I used them recently to cut a piece of 4 inch round 1 3/4 piece of aluminum in half worked really well20171228_182143.jpg20171102_163357.jpg
 
Older thread, but I have a 4x6 HF saw. I opened the gear box and the rubber(ish) seal inside the box was pretty well stuck on. It was like a sheet of rubber, the cover came off, but the rubber seal stayed on. I was afraid to scrape it off or force it for fear that it might not seal again. Any hints on that issue?

Is there a replaceable seal?
 
The rubber seal is reusable if it is not damaged. If it is damaged, a new gasket is needed. It is not a critical application, there is no pressure in the cavity during use, so a piece of inner tube or corn flakes box would likely do the job. I recently checked the oil level on mine and added a bit of oil. I reused the gasket. It is not leaking. In fact, in the horizontal position, the gasket is above the oil level, so the oil would have to climb uphill to leak.
 
Bob Korves said:
... so a piece of inner tube or corn flakes box would likely do the job
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Bob, this cracked me up. It recalled an incident when I was young. I was helping a guy who raced a '64 Plymouth Fury with a 426 Wedge motor - remember those? Anyway, he had a leak at the upper radiator hose housing and we had a race in less than 2 hours so he used a Cheerios box to make a gasket. Maybe not as good as a corn flakes box but that thing never leaked and as far as I know, he never had to change it. This same guy used ice cubes jammed in a Folgers coffee can to cool his fuel inlet line and he swore that was why his car ran in the low 9-seconds at the track. So, corn flakes box? Yeah, I can get behind that!
 
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