Hitachi VFD clarifications needed please

[lowlife]

Hitachi WJ200-22sf
I'm trying to wrap my head around some things before I finish the wiring of the VFD to a BP clone.

Breaking it down to the most simplistic explanation it is my understanding that source logic (jumper from L to PLC) is basically making terminals 1-7 ground side switching and the opposite for sink logic (jumper wire PLC to P24) correct?

The jog switch explaination is a bit vague for me. Can someone explain this better than the manual. First do I need an actual on/off switch or can it be a momentary switch for the jog button? I am a bit confused by the procedure for using it. As I understand it I need to turn the jog on first then the fw or rev switch. How do I repeat this ? I will be using a drum switch with center off for fw/rev. The switch is actually a 2 pole but I assume I should be able to use it in place of a single pole with the center off.

I wish to see if this example I am about to give is correct as well. If I Wire using source logic I would wire everything from p24 through the E stop switch last while it was NC then if necessary I would push the E stop to the NO position?

I'm sure Ive gone severely wrong somewhere. I will probably have other questions as well, but I will read the manual a 3rd time and go from there. I don't want to let the magic black smoke out of the box so I will understand this completely even if it kills me.

Thanks for your time.

EDIT After checking the fwd/off/rev switch I am going to order a single pole 3 position sw. This one may provide feedback issues the way it is laid out and frankly I have enough to contemplate elsewhere. I took some pics as I understand it people like pics? Will load later if I can figure it out.

 

[rdhem2]

Breaking it down to the most simplistic explanation it is my understanding that source logic (jumper from L to PLC) is basically making terminals 1-7 ground side switching and the opposite for sink logic (jumper wire PLC to P24) correct?

You are 100% correct. It is only a polarity issue in some cases.

The jog switch explanation is a bit vague for me. Can someone explain this better than the manual. First do I need an actual on/off switch or can it be a momentary switch for the jog button? I am a bit confused by the procedure for using it. As I understand it I need to turn the jog on first then the fw or rev switch. How do I repeat this ? I will be using a drum switch with center off for fw/rev. The switch is actually a 2 pole but I assume I should be able to use it in place of a single pole with the center off.

I see by your EDIT you have decided not to use the drum switch. Good choice. I do not understand why people like something so well that they do not understand. By programming in the JOG to a terminal you are simply enabling the function so you may jog the machine at a separate speed from other presets. It has it's own setting in the parameters programming section. The JOG function typically uses a momentary pushbutton as it is a momentary function.

I wish to see if this example I am about to give is correct as well. If I Wire using source logic I would wire everything from p24 through the E stop switch last while it was NC then if necessary I would push the E stop to the NO position?

This is where people get confused. You are trying to mix conventional control logic with the drive control logic. If you truly want a REAL "E" STOP, you should install a contactor to open the line side power to the VFD. This contactor would remain energized at all times when you are running the machine and then open via pushbutton on demand. When using the low voltage terminals you must use the three wire control scheme. You cannot mix momentary and maintained devices in the same circuit and have an "E" STOP push button work correctly. In other words FWD & REV have to be two separate pushbuttons not a drum switch or maintained FWD/REV selector switch. YES, I could explain 100 ways to make it work otherwise, but lets keep this simple for the moment. Just use three pushbuttons, STOP-FWD-REV. All STOP pushbuttons should be wired in series before any other functions in a control circuit. To be by the letter this applies to both conventional and low voltage control circuit wiring. If it makes one feel better, hang a "E" STOP legend plate on the STOP button. All STOPS function the same anyway. Only the Government Inspector knows the difference.

I'm sure I've gone severely wrong somewhere. I will probably have other questions as well, but I will read the manual a 3rd time and go from there. I don't want to let the magic black smoke out of the box so I will understand this completely even if it kills me.

You are not going wrong. For someone not in the trade, so to speak. You seem to have a remarkable grasp on the functions of the VFD. These units, especially HITACHI, one of the best in the biz in my opinion, are really bullet proof. I have never seen one yet ruined by miswiring on the low voltage side. If it is wrong, it will just not work! Don't try to disseminate that whole manual. I bet there is stuff in there the guy that wrote it does not understand. I'll bet 2/3 of the information does not even apply to your application. Just get a working knowledge, install it, run it, and learn how to troubleshoot it if you have problems in the future.

I was going to put a JOG on my mill also. But after a little thought I was reminded that even with a JOG function I could rarely get the damn thing to stop where I wanted anyway. So I just grab the chuck and pull by hand. Faster, easier, and a lot less hardware and wire! I used the extra hole in the PB enclosure to mount a drive reset switch so I don't have to go around and open the control cabinet. Whole lot handier!

Now quit fretting and wire that baby up. You are going to love it and pile that SWARF high!

 

[lowlife]

Here hopefully are the photos promised. Thanks for the help and reply. I am not probably done with my questions. I have a philosophy of "Design, function, repair. I need to see the design, figure out its function, and then able to make any repairs. IE. I really need to figure it out before I am comfortable with it. I have a strong DC background but the wording of this manual along with other things like a slower older brain is making this at times a bit hard to follow. I need things explained to the point where most people give up in frustration and I understand why, I'm the annoying guy who keeps asking the "why" or "how" questions all the time. I was the one who slowed the class down for everyone:nuts: There is so much information that I was trying to disseminate that I think my mind went into shut down mode. Thanks again and stay tuned. Feel free to critique anything seen here. I am a newbie by all accounts.

 

[hvontres]

Good chice on the VFD

I just posted some of the settings for my setup here http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/20615-vfd-forward-reverse-switch/#7 . Basically I am running a Three-Wire setup with setperate Start/Stop Buttons and a forward/Reverse swith. I also included a Jog Button, very handy for Power Tapping The only slighlty annoying thing is that I need to hold down the start and jog buttons together to get the jog funciton to work. The Start and Jog buttons are Momentary normaly open switches and the Stop button is a Normally closed swtich. If your Strart/Stop switch as two sets of contacts, you might be able to wire it up in three wire mode.

Good luck.

 

[lowlife]

That helps some with the jogging feature and no/nc contacts. I see you have a Sargon DRO. I have a prospector with a bad x scale. I am having a debate with myself as to whether I replace the x scale (300.00) or go with a new Chinese 3 axis for about 150.00 more. My worry is that the y scale will go next. The head unit works fine.

 

[hvontres]

That helps some with the jogging feature and no/nc contacts. I see you have a Sargon DRO. I have a prospector with a bad x scale. I am having a debate with myself as to whether I replace the x scale (300.00) or go with a new Chinese 3 axis for about 150.00 more. My worry is that the y scale will go next. The head unit works fine.

I got a replacement X scale from here: http://www.sargon-dro.net/Sargon_Jenix_Scale.html

On mine, one of the wires had broken on the read-head. I tried to rebuild it, but no dice The only bummer is that the replacement scales don't fit the Sargon hole pattern, so you will need to drill and tap new mounting holes.

 

[rdhem2]

Mr. hvontres:
If you put a second contact block on the jog pb and wire the run/fwd term to it you will be able to just push the jog button to jog. Jumper the common to the second contact then wire to fwd.

HTH

- - - Updated - - -

Mr. lowlife:

I like your pics. Nice installation.

Now lets see that machine covered in SWARF!

 

[hvontres]

Mr. hvontres:
If you put a second contact block on the jog pb and wire the run/fwd term to it you will be able to just push the jog button to jog. Jumper the common to the second contact then wire to fwd.

HTH

Thanks. Next time I put an order in at Automation direct, I'll throw in another contact block.

 

[lowlife]

Wiring is completed, just need to have an electrician friend come over to give it a thumbs up. I will now start learning how to program it for the way I wired it.

I fiddled around with the scale on the DRO and got it too work. Must have been dirty and I think misaligned. Saved myself some money today. I will either put it towards more tools or a ten pack of AR lowers. Hmmmmm. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[lowlife]

Is there a parameter I need to change to get the controls to switch from the vfd to the control panel? VFD controls the mill fine. I wired the control box (hopefully correctly) changed the logic from sink to source with the jumper and nothing. It still can be controlled form the vfd however. I realize that my wiring could be incorrect or possibly my programing but I wanted to start here first. Thanks.

I really like this VFD protection wise, I have done everything in my power to blow it up and it stills runs. Hats off to you Hitachi for protecting me from myself......

The manual addresses everything and explains most things so I can understand it, but it does so disjointedly. You really need to bounce around in the manual to find stuff.