- Joined
- Aug 12, 2014
- Messages
- 269
Or one of these. Can be indexed to a jaw to get the least run out or used in a 4jaw, a vise or whatever and it will not slip like a round one when tightening collet nut plus you get a 12 position indexer.
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Holding Small Material
- Thread starter parshal
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2018
- Messages
- 880
A 12-sider would be nice! Anybody outside of Australia make those?
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 8,852
As long as there was some spare metal, the piece being turned should be true. The problem is that if it needed to be concentric with the spindle. Then, it really needs to be axial and dialed in. For example, parting off a screw in a lantern chuck seems routine, but if too many things are off, it can go wrong, breaking tools and parts.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,844
That is what I use. I also have one that is four sided which can be used in the 4-jaw chuck. These are nice to have since the transfer well for using on the mill.
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2014
- Messages
- 269
Haven't found anyone but you could probably mill one from a 6 sided block and probably much cheaper if you didn't mind the body being smaller than the nut which is the case with most blocks.
John.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,138
A rather long winded solution, but then I've been accused of that many times before...
I use an older Craftsman machine, with a MT3 spindle as well as the screw on chuck. I never throw anything away and among the "leftover" stuff was a number of parts from a "UniMat", a DB-200. About a 3" diameter machine. Among these parts were a 3 jaw scroll chuck and a 4 jaw independant chuck. Both were approximately 2-1/2" diameter, 60mm?.
Taking a "cheap" MT3 live (unhardened) center, not inexpensive but cheap, I trimmed it down and made a M12X1 spindle nose to fit the chucks. Both have the capacity to hold a Nr 80 drill, 0.0135". Small enough to do anything I would ever want. For most stuff, I keep the 3 jaw mounted. For something that must be true, I use the 4 jaw independant. Only have a 3/16 center hole, but that's enough to work anything where I need that small of a chuck.
The MT3 was long enough to make such an adapter. I used a Dremel cutting disk to make a notch in the lathe spindle. And a similar notch in the "adapter". So that I always put the MT3 in the same relationship to the true center of the lathe. This way, the 3 jaw fits right most of the time. I rarely need the 4 jaw.
The only problem I have is that I haven't figured out how to hold the MT3 adapter in bass ackwards so I can drill and tap for a drawbar big enough to get a usable center hole. I do a lot of work with 1/8" brazing rod. Even the "drill" chuck that fits the 1-1/2 spindle won't close on that. But my "modification" does, and works quite well for building concentric model parts. Any thing larger, of course, gets the full size chucks. A 5" scroll chuck or a 7" independant.
I use an older Craftsman machine, with a MT3 spindle as well as the screw on chuck. I never throw anything away and among the "leftover" stuff was a number of parts from a "UniMat", a DB-200. About a 3" diameter machine. Among these parts were a 3 jaw scroll chuck and a 4 jaw independant chuck. Both were approximately 2-1/2" diameter, 60mm?.
Taking a "cheap" MT3 live (unhardened) center, not inexpensive but cheap, I trimmed it down and made a M12X1 spindle nose to fit the chucks. Both have the capacity to hold a Nr 80 drill, 0.0135". Small enough to do anything I would ever want. For most stuff, I keep the 3 jaw mounted. For something that must be true, I use the 4 jaw independant. Only have a 3/16 center hole, but that's enough to work anything where I need that small of a chuck.
The MT3 was long enough to make such an adapter. I used a Dremel cutting disk to make a notch in the lathe spindle. And a similar notch in the "adapter". So that I always put the MT3 in the same relationship to the true center of the lathe. This way, the 3 jaw fits right most of the time. I rarely need the 4 jaw.
The only problem I have is that I haven't figured out how to hold the MT3 adapter in bass ackwards so I can drill and tap for a drawbar big enough to get a usable center hole. I do a lot of work with 1/8" brazing rod. Even the "drill" chuck that fits the 1-1/2 spindle won't close on that. But my "modification" does, and works quite well for building concentric model parts. Any thing larger, of course, gets the full size chucks. A 5" scroll chuck or a 7" independant.
Bill Hudson
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