Homebrew cutting oil

[riversidedan]

Really dont know the diffrence in cutting oils but have been using Tap magic which seems to be doing its thing, then again dont know if its working or not..........
but am now interested with what you guys have been using for your homebrew ingredients

this is sure a great easy to use site .........thanx HM

 

[mmcmdl]

This really depends on what you are machining . Aluminun vs stainless etc . Aluminum you can get away with tap magic , kerosene , w-d 40 etc . Steel and stainless , I go with the heavy oil when neccesary . Being in a basement didn't help when using the heavy oil , so I did get away from that at home . At work , different story .

 

[benmychree]

I like TapMagic for nearly every cutting need.

 

[Video_man]

While I usually just use commercial products, I have dabbled in making my own lard oil for steel...grocery store lard, melted with mineral spirits and left to sit for a couple of days until the white stuff comes to the surface (stearic acid, not wanted). What's left is oleic acid, which is what does the magic. Works well, seems to not get rancid unless somehow water gets to it. For tapping steel, I again usually use commercial products for convenience, but for steel I have made a concoction of CRC Moly-Graph grease dissolved in trichlor (yeah, yeah, I know, hush up!) and it works a treat.

 

[Dabbler]

For steel I use 4 parts sulfated heavy cutting oil, 2 parts cheap light lubricating oil (like 10w30 motor oil - detergent doesn't matter here, you're only using a few drops) and 1 part WD40. This works well for tapping and cutting, at about 1/10 the cost of tap magic heavy.

I use straight heavy sulfated oil by itself for tapping very large threads such as 3/4 NC or 1" Acme 10. Nothing better.

 

[benmychree]

While I usually just use commercial products, I have dabbled in making my own lard oil for steel...grocery store lard, melted with mineral spirits and left to sit for a couple of days until the white stuff comes to the surface (stearic acid, not wanted). What's left is oleic acid, which is what does the magic. Works well, seems to not get rancid unless somehow water gets to it. For tapping steel, I again usually use commercial products for convenience, but for steel I have made a concoction of CRC Moly-Graph grease dissolved in trichlor (yeah, yeah, I know, hush up!) and it works a treat.

Where does one even get trichlor any more?

 

[WobblyHand]

For steel I use 4 parts sulfated heavy cutting oil, 2 parts cheap light lubricating oil (like 10w30 motor oil - detergent doesn't matter here, you're only using a few drops) and 1 part WD40. This works well for tapping and cutting, at about 1/10 the cost of tap magic heavy.

I use straight heavy sulfated oil by itself for tapping very large threads such as 3/4 NC or 1" Acme 10. Nothing better.

The heavy sulfated cutting oil does have a certain aroma to it though. It works well, but it is stinky.

 

[Dabbler]

That's why I only use it full strength in really, really hard cutting situations. Stinky, but effective, Worse if you get "the smoke" on a drilling operation.

 

[WobblyHand]

That's why I only use it full strength in really, really hard cutting situations. Stinky, but effective, Worse if you get "the smoke" on a drilling operation.

I did manage to smoke things up once! Took a bit to clear out the room.

My mentioning of the smell was simply because new folks might not know that. Would be an unpleasant surprise.

 

[ddickey]

Good one here.