How do I match DC drives to DC motors.. and how do I test them?

Some afterthoughts:

It has been mentioned that a PerMag motor can be driven as a generator. In actuality, any DC motor is also a generator. Which is just a matter of whether a "load" or a "prime mover" is connected. Many(most) diesel-electric propulsion ships use the generator connected to a battery to "motorize" the prime mover (diesel) to start. There are exceptions, I served on one. But most do. Railroad locomotives use the same process. It is necessary to have controls for the field to some extent, but depends on the situation. Basically, the "generator" is also the "starter" motor.

Another thought that doesn't really fit your situation is to reverse a series DC motor with only two(2) leads. The series field is routed through a diode bridge rectifier mounted at the motor. The bridge carries armature current, so for large motors (over a very few HP) is not really an option. I had devised the solution for a bridge crane in 1978 or 79. Reliance Electric picked up the thought and used it on their DC drives later. But most of their drives were for shunt fields, so the connections were a little different. My implementation was to reduce the number of "trolley slides" (hence wires) on a bridge crane.

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Bi11Hudson said:
Some afterthoughts:

It has been mentioned that a PerMag motor can be driven as a generator. In actuality, any DC motor is also a generator. Which is just a matter of whether a "load" or a "prime mover" is connected. Many(most) diesel-electric propulsion ships use the generator connected to a battery to "motorize" the prime mover (diesel) to start. There are exceptions, I served on one. But most do. Railroad locomotives use the same process. It is necessary to have controls for the field to some extent, but depends on the situation. Basically, the "generator" is also the "starter" motor.

Another thought that doesn't really fit your situation is to reverse a series DC motor with only two(2) leads. The series field is routed through a diode bridge rectifier mounted at the motor. The bridge carries armature current, so for large motors (over a very few HP) is not really an option. I had devised the solution for a bridge crane in 1978 or 79. Reliance Electric picked up the thought and used it on their DC drives later. But most of their drives were for shunt fields, so the connections were a little different. My implementation was to reduce the number of "trolley slides" (hence wires) on a bridge crane.

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Click to expand...
Man, I am copying everything you guys are telling me into a "note" on my computer.. nothing like learning from people like in school (wow, what happened to me?)
 
Anyone recognize this threaded plug on the motor? Or what type of connector it is to get me closer to finding it? It would be pretty FANCY to find a plug to leave the controller/driver to the motor!
 

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itsme_Bernie said:
Anyone recognize this threaded plug on the motor? Or what type of connector it is to get me closer to finding it? It would be pretty FANCY to find a plug to leave the controller/driver to the motor!
Click to expand...
In the first place, I am purely speculating. Without taking the motor in hand and making measurements, it would be impossible to say for sure. In its' simplist form, at first glance it is a "nominally" watertight line cord connector. My opinion is that it can be replaced with a line cord and wire restraint. Since there are only two wires coming out of the motor, I would speculate that the Red wire is A-1. The plastic block looks like a terminal point and nothing more. For sourcing one, I would look at a European or DIN source for electrical parts, not electronics.

I personally use https://expert.alliedelec.com/ and https://www.mpja.com/. The former is oriented toward new components and the latter is a "salvage" house, meaning the products come and go relatively quickly. They both are "industrial" in nature and both easy to work with, even in small quantities. While the adverts appear electronic, there are a number of parts that are electrical in nature. There is a fuzzy area where the two crafts overlap and these are the two vendors I use for that area.

Think of "Radio Shack" from the mid '70s when they didn't carry "toys" and telephones and computers. Allied is the original before the retail outlets were bought by Tandy Leather. Either one may have the connector, and if it gets too wierd or costly, both have watertight cable clamps.

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Gotcha. I have been searching connectors that show the measurements and voltage and amperage specs and I'll post when I have success
 
I am a bit of a dork. There are only two wires and a ground connected in that box. I like the idea of the treaded, pinned connector, since it won't easily come apart. SO I just found some 600v, 10amp connectors that I can replace in the box on the motor.
I will show this when I get them in my hands.
 
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