How do I use my HF 4x6 for vertical cutting?

[HMF]

Hi Guys,

I'd like to use my little 4x6 bandsaw in the verticle position to rough out contours. One problem is that the thickness of the blades is .035, the width is .500.

Can thinner blades be used?

The length of the blade, at 64 1/2", means they have to turn in a very tight radius.
This is harder on the blade, to bend that tightly around the wheels. And it makes the welds more likely to break on narrower blades.

Will I have to change the guides for narrower blades? Will the steel wheels and guides flatten out the set in the blades soon?

Will I have to readjust the back stops to keep the blade teeth out of the blade guides?

As for the side bearings- should I pull em off, and replace em with chunks of solid steel or bronze, turned down to a thinner size?

Thanks,

Nelson

 

[HMF]

The ones I have are .035, but I am aware that they do come in .025.

Best,

Nelson

 

[toolingjim]

author=Allthumbz link=topic=1430.msg7750#msg7750 date=1301254954
Hi Guys,

I'd like to use my little 4x6 bandsaw in the verticle position to rough out contours. One problem is that the thickness of the blades is .035, the width is .500.

Can thinner blades be used?

The length of the blade, at 64 1/2", means they have to turn in a very tight radius.
This is harder on the blade, to bend that tightly around the wheels. And it makes the welds more likely to break on narrower blades.

Will I have to change the guides for narrower blades? Will the steel wheels and guides flatten out the set in the blades soon?

Will I have to readjust the back stops to keep the blade teeth out of the blade guides?

As for the side bearings- should I pull em off, and replace em with chunks of solid steel or bronze, turned down to a thinner size?

Thanks,

Nelson

You can use thinner blades. One or both of the side guides on my old 4x6 saw are on an eccentric which can be rotated to allow thinner or thicker blades. I have found that adjusting them to just roll as the blade runs through works well. Check to see that the weld doesn't bind. The same goes for the rear support bearing. I have found that a dab of oil or wax on the side of the blade where it runs throught the ball bearing guides helps.
You shouldn't run a blade narrower than what the drive wheels were designed for. The teeth of the blade should hang over the front of the wheel when the back of the blade is against the shoulder on the back of the wheels. On my bandsaw this means a 1/2' wide blade. According to our local Lenox blade dealer, running narrower blades can tear up the drive wheels, and will wear the set off one side of the teeth, making the blade pull to one side and overheat.
My 4x6 uses bare drive wheels. Better bandsaws have rubber 'tires', a thin band around the wheels. This soft surface might allow you to run a narrow blade on this saw. I have thought about glueing rubber from a bike inner tube to my wheels, but haven't gotten around to it.
I hope the above is of use to you.