How to identify machine taps used for tapping head?

[nnam]

Besides some label calling them machine taps (which can be very unreliable these days), are they always spiral flute types?
With hand tap, I have to constantly backing off. I am sure those taps putting in a tapping head would break quickly.

 

[mmcmdl]

 

[Charles scozzari]

Besides some label calling them machine taps (which can be very unreliable these days), are they always spiral flute types?
With hand tap, I have to constantly backing off. I am sure those taps putting in a tapping head would break quickly.

Good morning, from what I read and see most guys do not clean the tap by reversing rotation every half turn but continue through the steel in one shot. Doing that increases the chance of breaking a tap and the threads are not as crisp as they should be. Neebee's should learn what each tap is designed for, and that it's not one size fits all. Another thing I do is to use a counter sink to slightly relieve the top of the hole and make it easier to start the tap and looks cleaner and also makes it easier to start the screw or bolt when done. Lastly use Tap-Ease. Thank's.

 

[Chewy]

Thanks for the post. I knew most all of what he said, but the way he said it is the most clearest of all the videos I have seen. If your just starting out, I would watch this a couple of times. A broken tap is no fun. Problem being, a lot of people reading this want to go to the hardware store to get a tap. Just pointed out by Charles Soozzari, It helps to countersink the hole. That was missing in the video.

 

[Charles scozzari]

Thanks for the post. I knew most all of what he said, but the way he said it is the most clearest of all the videos I have seen. If your just starting out, I would watch this a couple of times. A broken tap is no fun. Problem being, a lot of people reading this want to go to the hardware store to get a tap. Just pointed out by Charles Soozzari, It helps to countersink the hole. That was missing in the video.

I would just like to add that like any other cutting tool taps wear out. Hardware store taps may also be a problem. I would buy from jobber/tool suppliers for quality taps. Used / junk taps can ruin a day quickly.

 

[Charles scozzari]

Most, if not all production machine shops use Telco taping tools in production work. The difference is when they snap a tap they use their disintegrating machine to remove the broken tap and are back in business.

 

[Chewy]

A broken tap can ruin a day faster than quick!!! I have a chipped spot in the concrete wall courtesy of a broken tap.

 

[Charles scozzari]

A broken tap can ruin a day faster than quick!!! I have a chipped spot in the concrete wall courtesy of a broken tap.

Yes they can be very very dangerous. Thankfully you were not in its path.

 

[Illinoyance]

I power tap a lot. For through holes I prefer spiral point taps. They push the chips ahead and there is no need to break chip. For blind holes I use a spiral flute tap that pulls the chips up and out of the hole. Again, no need to break chip. For a small number of holes I hold the tap in an ER collet (limited to 1/4" and larger). I have torque limiting tapping heads when there are a large number of holes. When using hand taps 1/2" and over I rarely reverse the spindle to break the chip.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Besides some label calling them machine taps (which can be very unreliable these days), are they always spiral flute types?
With hand tap, I have to constantly backing off. I am sure those taps putting in a tapping head would break quickly.

I prefer spiral POINT taps for power tapping. They are stronger than spiral FLUTE taps and designed for power tapping. They push the chip ahead of the tap so they need a through hole or extra depth for the chip. Spiral flute taps work best for blind holes where you don't have room for the extra depth. Hand taps are, as the name implies, for hand tapping. They are my last choice when I have no other option. Thread forming taps are the strongest of all but are only suitable for certain materials