How to make a better 3D printer nozzle? (Machining topic)

The only problem I see is that your 'retract' probably isn't going to work with the larger heat chamber. So... Extra stringy prints? Or maybe the unmelted filament will act something like the plunger in a syringe and it will retract fine.

GsT
 
My volcano is not great at retraction... but getting your extrusion speed up sounds like a win!
Ruby nozzles (IE: watch jewels) work great on abrasive filament.

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If you need to improve the mm3 per minute the consider the bondtec CHT nozzles. they have done well in tests up to 30mm3 per minute, which is amazingly fast. No need to reinvent the wheel.
 
I have a couple of thoughts. Instead of adding a longer melt zone, how about a pre-heat stage that brings the filament up to a middle temp between the final extrustion temp and room temp. The final heater will have less energy it has to pump in at the final section.
That is "sorta" how they do it in industrial plastics extrusion. I took this picture today of a wire extruder, and labeled the zone temperature controllers from beginning to end.
20240313_003908.jpg
They step heat up a few degrees at each zone. Not quite what you described but close enough. Where an industrial screw extruder has the screw to feed the plastic all the way from start to end, a 3d printer extruder relies on the solid upstream filament to feed the molten downstream filament. If you soften the upstream filament with heat, then I think it would be like trying to push snot with a rope. If your filament is already a rope (60A shore, basically a spaghetti noodle) then you're already pushing snot with a rope and I think heating it up would make it like trying to push snot with cooler snot.
Also if you have not looked into the new diamond nozzles, it might be worth the cost. here is a you tube with a factory tour.
Thanks, I saw those in the past and scoffed at the price. $100 for a single nozzle?! Well, this has gotten more serious than printing fidget toys for the kids, so I pulled the trigger on one just now.
 
The only problem I see is that your 'retract' probably isn't going to work with the larger heat chamber. So... Extra stringy prints? Or maybe the unmelted filament will act something like the plunger in a syringe and it will retract fine.

GsT
I already don't use retract because it adds a significant amount of time to the print. As a result there is some stringing but it isn't bad because I dry the filament (brand new filament straight from the vacuum sealed package) at least 12hrs at 70c before use, and print from the spool still in the running dryer. Most of stringing/oozing is caused by moisture boiling out of the filament inside the nozzle, pushing extra plastic out during travel moves. I set travel to 500mm/s so anything that does ooze out doesn't have a chance to get any thicker than a spiders web and disappears instantly with the briefest of kisses from a propane torch.
 
If you need to improve the mm3 per minute the consider the bondtec CHT nozzles. they have done well in tests up to 30mm3 per minute, which is amazingly fast. No need to reinvent the wheel.
I have many CHT nozzles; not original bondtech, but knockoffs that were corroborated by strangers on the internet to be just as good. I find them to be better than normal nozzles for most filaments, no better/no worse for a handful, and worse for a couple (the ones I'm most interested in printing currently). For example I can get more CoexFlex 60A through a 0.6mm plain Volcano nozzle than I can through a 0.8mm volcano CHT nozzle.

I used to think of 30mm³/s as amazingly fast too, but now I think that we (in general, those of us who 3D print) have been conditioned to think small and accept subpar performance as normal. With just one of the 115W heaters shown in post #1 on the Omniadrop extruder I was hitting 46mm³/s with Overture HS TPU and with the double 115W heater arrangement I am hitting 77mm³/s. I don't want to set a "goal" because I might get complacent once/if I achieve it, but it would be cool to see 100mm/s with an ultra soft filament.


That is a 95A TPU. With filaments softer than that (except SpiderFlex 75A) I did not see such a dramatic improvement. Actually with CoexFlex 60A the there was no improvement at all; I think that the roughness of the barrel plays a much larger role with softer filaments and the gains from the extra heater were totally canceled out by my shoddy boring of the barrel.
 
Thanks, I saw those in the past and scoffed at the price. $100 for a single nozzle?! Well, this has gotten more serious than printing fidget toys for the kids, so I pulled the trigger on one just now.
Looking forward to hearing what you think of this. Last time I looked it was still not available for a Bambu X1C but I will probably spring for one when it is.
 
Looking forward to hearing what you think of this. Last time I looked it was still not available for a Bambu X1C but I will probably spring for one when it is.
I will update this post with results from the diamondback nozzle as well as results from the reamed/lapped barrel, as I also got the needle eye barrel laps and reamers on order. If there is time I will try installing the nozzle on one of my other printer which I haven't done any high-flow shenanigans on, so that it might give a more relatable indicator for what one could expect just from installing this nozzle as the only upgrade.
 
@strantor I'm really glad that you've tried the CHT. Where I am going with this is that a longer heat path can be collapsed into a shorter nozzle...

You are hoping for a smooth path. A frictional path can induce chaotic flow as the filament liquefies, presenting lower temperature fragments to the hot walls.... Industrial filament machines use a very long heat path with polished paths, but those units use higher pressures and screw extrusion to liquify the plastic.

I applaud your work towards getting better extrusion for TPU.... a little troublesome on some commercial 3DP.
 
@strantor I'm really glad that you've tried the CHT. Where I am going with this is that a longer heat path can be collapsed into a shorter nozzle...

You are hoping for a smooth path. A frictional path can induce chaotic flow as the filament liquefies, presenting lower temperature fragments to the hot walls.... Industrial filament machines use a very long heat path with polished paths, but those units use higher pressures and screw extrusion to liquify the plastic.

I applaud your work towards getting better extrusion for TPU.... a little troublesome on some commercial 3DP.

I am about to say a lot of "I think" and "to me it seems" stuff here. It's annoyingly non-committal I know, but I am not a material scientist and am just trying to explain the conclusions I have made based on first hand observation.

The problem as I see it, is that in most cases, a 3d printer is not actually melting the plastic. Or, not melting it completely. A 3d printer running at a "normal" speed (ex: for PLA) I suspect, is just getting the filament soft enough to force through a hole. In this video you can see what I mean, he starts talking about it around 16:00 or shortly thereafter, calling it "cold core extrusion" and gives good visuals of it.


He implies that it only happens at high-speed open-air testing, but I suspect that it is happening all the time, to greater or lesser extents, depending on material type, temperature, and print speed.

Some might say that "getting the filament soft enough to force through a small hole" IS melting it. Not in my book. To me, melting means turning the filament into a homogeneous viscous fluid that is the same temperature and consistency throughout, from OD to center.

The CHT solution I think works well for most filaments because it splits the "cold core" of the filament into 3 smaller filaments which are easier to individually melt (homogeneously liquefy). This is great when the filament is strong enough to really stand some pressure on its head and force through this 3-hole cheese grater. But for a filament that isn't strong enough to apply any pressure to, the cheese grater is just a restriction.

I am not sure if you have tried working with any of these super soft filaments like 60A, but it is a whole different ball game. Without embellishing I can say it is like a well done spaghetti noodle that has the elasticity of a rubber band. You can't apply much pressure to it at all before it goes "sproioioing" and pops laterally out from between the extruder gears. I think we are "brute forcing" filaments through the hotend as a course of normal operation but it just doesn't work for these softer filaments. I think the reason why "just slow down" works, is that it gives the filament time to actually melt (not just soften enough to force through a hole) as it passes through this laughably tiny melt zone. But if we can actually melt the filament without slowing way down to do so, then I think it solves most of the issue.

So I think the melt zone needs to be as long as possible to give the filament plenty of opportunity to melt, and it needs to be as unrestrictive as possible so that not much extrusion pressure is necessary (because we can't apply much). It should be something that ordinary filament would just "fall through" under its own weight if there were no extruder gears. Very finely polished walls, no cheese grater, and as large a nozzle as one can get away with. The motor can be something pathetically small. Where a normal extruder might be 80% motor and 20% hotend, a super soft flexibles extruder should be 20% motor and 80% hotend.

Those are my hypotheses and assumptions and they are soon to be proven or disproven, I will post updates. But I think, if it works, it actually should for normal filaments as well; I think the theory is still valid. I think we only do the brute force thing because that's how we've always done things, and I'm only trying this other way because "just slow down" tastes to me almost like a personal insult.
 
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