[How-To] How to remove the pulley from the headstock of an Atlas/Clausing MK-2 6" Model 10100 lathe?

There should be a key so the pulley can drive the spindle. I would expect that grunge is preventing the pulley from slipping off. Keep working at it with WD40 or kerosene to loosen the grunge. Try rotating the pulley back and forth to work the solvent into the bore. If it were mine, I would try a gear puller with gentle force. Pull a little on the gear and douse with solvent and tap pack with a soft face hammer or block of wood and a hammer. Repeat this operation multiple times. You will see more and more movement with each iteration and finally, it will pop off.

Edit: if there were another retention mechanism, they wouldn't have used the snap ring.
Yeah, that's what I thought, too, that there wouldn't be the need for a snap ring if it were held on elsewhere. My trepidation comes from the fact that it is a 40+ year old lathe, and coming across parts for it (or rather, that don't cost kind of a lot) is getting harder with each day that passes - and messing up a spindle seems like the kind of thing someone should really avoid if at all possible.

I'll gather answers for a bit longer before actually taking action here, but to my inexperienced eye, this does seem like the best idea so far. Thanks!
 
Yep! That's a fear that brought me here - I don't want to make a mistake if it's at all avoidable.
 
I'm no machinist but I do understand mechanical principle. Think twice about using a puller. These pulleys are a very soft alloy. Even if you don't break it, it's shape can easily distort. Tools for persuading a spindle and its components is not advised unless you are well versed. Patience, solvent of choice and movement (even slight) between parts will win the day with this one. Keep us posted.
 
Speedly,

Several minutes ago, I was about ready to tell you that you must be in the wrong Forum because Atlas never made a Model 10-100 lathe when someone else mentioned that it was a square-head 6" and the shoe fell. The correct model number is 10100, not 10-100. Atlas of course never made one but following their earlier model numbering standards, that would have been a 10" swing lathe with 100" between centers!. I corrected that in several places. If I missed any, someone will probably tell me.

Anyway, as has already been written the spindle pulley and direct drive sleeve are held on by an outside circlip. Remove that and the spindle pulley and sleeve should slide off of the spindle.

In Downloads there is a PDF scan of the 10100 Owners Manual. However, full access to Downloads requires that you have Donor status (any level on up). If you click on the Downloads forum in the tool bar at TOS, the details will be shown. You can also make a donation from within your Account. FWIW, making a donation requires having a PayPal account. We used ti accept Check/MO but the owner had some problems of some sort.
 
In reviewing the manual, there are 2 snap clips.

The bushing shown here slides in and out to lock the pulley to the shaft.

It looks a bit odd but it is a small lathe.

Removing the outer c-clip will allow the first bushing to come off, there is a detent spring and ball so put a plastic bag over it to capture it.

Once that I'd removed there is another clip.

Since these are sliding parts and NOT keyed to the spindle it should come apart fairly easy.

Just review the manual.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
One minor question not answered by the exploded view drawing is whether the second circlip must be removed before the pulley is or not.
 
Thought I'd come back and let others know of my progress. I got a bee in my bonnet about it a few weeks ago and decided to figure it out.
There is no detent spring on mine, for the record. A puller did not work and I realized why - the shaft was just small enough to fit inside my spindle bore! It wasn't pulling anything, just winding its way down the hole. Ugh.

Chucked up a small aluminum bar far enough back for the shaft to press onto. It popped straight off. There is a "cap" with dogs on it, that fit into cutouts in the pulley. The "cap" is keyed, the pulley is not.

Once I figured that out I managed to get it apart. It didn't require much force at all.

Thanks to everyone who tried to help me out. Hopefully this post helps someone in the future!
 
Once you had done all of that, do each of the parts appear to look like those in the drawings. And when re-assembled does it seem to work properly?
 
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