Husky Air Compressor Motor Dead

[TomS]

My Husky air compressor was chugging along fine then quit. Found the breaker tripped and turned the start switch off before resetting the breaker. When I restarted the compressor one of the two motor capacitors spewed out a thick cloud of smoke. I immediately turned the compressor off and unplugged it from the power source.

Here's the motor nameplate data. Was able to find a replacement motor on the internet but no information on capacitors.



There was some oil around the capacitor cover. I removed the cover and this is what I found. No markings of any sort on the tag. So I'm not sure if this is the start capacitor or the run capacitor. FWIW it is 1-3/4" OD and 3-3/8" log from the bottom of the terminals.



This is a picture of the other capacitor (start or run?). A little blurry so I hope you can make out the pertinent data.



My questions are; is this a start or run capacitor, and what rating/spec should I be looking for?

Thanks,


Tom S

 

[TomS]

Here's a better picture of the other capacitor.

Tom S

 

[xalky]

I can't help you about repairing that motor. But here are some pretty inexpensive replacements: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=motor

 

[John Hasler]

Here's a better picture of the other capacitor.

Tom S

View attachment 66502

That's the start capacitor. The busted one is the run capacitor. Try something around 24MFD. The voltage rating should be at least 330VAC.

 

[jackofall]

Hi,


The capacity and voltage are listed on the side showing in your picture. What is showing is a 180 Mf, to 227 Mf, at 220 Vac.
Usually the starting value is the larger and the running is the smaller capacitance. Have you checked the cap with an Ohm meter? If it is bad usually it will be shorted, or have a very low resistance value.
If you have the manual, it may have the wiring schematic, or ladder diagram that will have the capacitor values. If you don't have the manual, you can also google the units model number to find a copy. I think that most of the 220 Vac models are about the same allowing for the difference in air capacity.
Also you can google the motor model number to find a schematic or ladder diagram.

I have included an web address link with some good info. I hope it helps. http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/ElectricMotors.pdf

 

[rafe]

cap probably shorted the breAker, replace it ....cap not the compressor

 

[TomS]

That's the start capacitor. The busted one is the run capacitor. Try something around 24MFD. The voltage rating should be at least 330VAC.

I found a 30 MFD 330 VAC run capacitor with a grounding lug on the bottom. Do I ground the capacitor to the motor housing? Or not ground it?

thanks everyone for your input. Without your help I would have been looking for a motor.

Tom s

 

[John Hasler]

I found a 30 MFD 330 VAC run capacitor with a grounding lug on the bottom. Do I ground the capacitor to the motor housing? Or not ground it?

thanks everyone for your input. Without your help I would have been looking for a motor.

Tom s

The grounding lug is for safety. It would be best to ground it, but it will work without.

 

[TomS]

The grounding lug is for safety. It would be best to ground it, but it will work without.

Thanks John. I'll hit up the local rewind shops tomorrow. Hopefully they will have one in stock.

Tom S

 

[Cast Iron Daddy]

Hey Tom,

What the guys said earlier is correct . The Silver can is the RUN capacitor , and is stays in the line all the time powering the AUX winding . The black one is the START capacitor and is only connected for a short time during starting .

I had a the same thing happen last summer . Replaced both capacitors ( be sure to use the same MFD and Voltage ) and off to the races . In the mean time , I researched motors and Northland Tool was the best deal. Go by the nameplate amps , not the horsepower , as some Manufacturers use " Peak Power " and other such bullcrap to describe the horsepower rating .

Good Luck