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Hydrashift Crossfeed Parts

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Plum Creek

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#1
I have been working on a variety of other projects so my hydra shift 15 has been languishing in the corner unloved.

I never could get it to cut properly, and it had issues. The crossfeed was difficult to turn and it had half turn of endplay. Disassembly revealed a bent screw and that all the components between the nut and the end of the screw are missing.
Looking at the parts book, It's not immediately obvious how the missing collar, bushing and bearing are supposed to be held in place. Just to complicate it a bit further, the machine came with parts of the taper but not all of it.
I would appreciate any advise, pics or help of any kind.
hh
 

jmhoying

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#2
Was it one of these parts?
taper01.jpg

lathe022.JPG

taper01.jpg

lathe022.JPG
 

Plum Creek

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#3
JM
Thanks for the pics. I'm not seeing the bearing, bushing or collar, in your pics. From your upper pic, It looks like I only have the top 3 pcs of the taper.
IMG_2688.jpg IMG_2691.jpg IMG_2690.jpg
 

Plum Creek

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#4
Looks like I need items 13 through 19. lathe.jpeg
 

jmhoying

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#5
My "guess" is that you have a standard leadscrew that isn't made for use with the taper attachment, which would not require those parts.
 

Plum Creek

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#6
You might be right, I didn't think of that! I will compare the numbers tomorrow.
 

Plum Creek

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#7
Yeup, the part number is for the non taper screw. Thanks!
That is a nice job of restoration on your lathe!
 

Plum Creek

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#8
Anyone have recommendations on how best to restore/straighten or replace the cross feed screw?
I don't have live centers to mount the shaft on, but the cross feed screw seems to resemble a cam more than a straight shaft. It has 3 high spots that I can see without an indicator. Its also been heated previously in the unthreaded portion.
The threaded portion are 9/16 LH-8, and from the gear back to the handle its 1/2".
The threads and the nut are in reasonable shape considering the beating they must have had.
I will get a better pic in the next day or so.
IMG_2746.JPG
 

Plum Creek

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#9
After watching a few Keith Fenner videos on shaft straightening, I mapped out the high spots and their orientation. I used a ball mill to cut beds into scrap 1" stock and stuck it in the press. Over the course of a week or so, I managed to coax it down to .010. I hope that will suffice.
Made a trip to the hardware store to buy new tapered pins only to discover that the handle is drilled off center and the shaft is not.
 

jmhoying

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#10
Nice job, I think that will work good for you! The brass "T-nut" is adjustable to take up wear, which works great, but you have to be careful to make sure not to overdo it, as you thread is probably worn more in the center/front of the shaft, which would make it hard to turn when in the area of good thread.
Jack
 

Plum Creek

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#11
Thanks Jack!
The screw/threads seem to be in nearly unused condition
So, my cross feed handle appears to be like yours but has no number on it. Is the taper pin hole in your cross feed handle drilled off center?
Also according to the parts diagram the small bushing with the key way in it, is missing, presumably to eliminate the friction from the bend in the shaft. Do you have any idea what material yours was made of?
Thanks, Howard
 

jmhoying

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#12
Thanks Jack!
The screw/threads seem to be in nearly unused condition
So, my cross feed handle appears to be like yours but has no number on it. Is the taper pin hole in your cross feed handle drilled off center?
Also according to the parts diagram the small bushing with the key way in it, is missing, presumably to eliminate the friction from the bend in the shaft. Do you have any idea what material yours was made of?
Thanks, Howard
I think it's fairly common to have tapered pins a bit off center, which means they will only work in one position on the shaft. Not sure how mine was on the feed handle. I have to take my cross feed apart in the near future to figure out why I have some forward/back slop in the whole assembly. I'm thinking it's a loose bolt somewhere in the system. I'll check out the bushing at that time.
Jack
 

Plum Creek

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#13
Ok, I suppose I can see the logic in that. I guess it doesn't really matter why the shaft for a machine without a taper attachment would be drilled differently than one with an attachment. Who knows maybe they just freehand them. Regardless, I believe that the misalignment was the cause of the shaft being bent. Whenever the shaft was replaced they tried to drive the pin in using a large hammer. It mushroomed the top of the pin, bent the pin into an S shape and bent the shaft.
Good luck finding the slop in your machine, and thanks for checking the bushing.
hh
 

Plum Creek

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#14
As a follow up; It a night and day difference! Endplay is roughly .020 and the difficulty turning the hand wheel has been reduced significantly. I can still feel a slight amount of out of roundness in one spot so I plan on pulling the screw and reworking it.
I made my first long cut on a excavator pin last week. I hope the taper is the result of twist. I used a chicom torpedo level across the flats of the carriage, to level it.
 
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