Ideal Approach Angle For A Cold Saw Blade?

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Str8jacket

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I have a cold saw i bought, couldnt afford a brobo etc at the time so i bought a cheaper version, still cost over 2k at the time but other options where 2x that.

It has never cut properly, it seems to chatter and then it would stall. I decided to change the single phase out for a 3ph motor and the is no stopping it now but it chatters like crazy. I cant afford to keep stuffing blades so im looking for ideas. I have stripped the saw down and checked it out. The worm drive and all the bearing seem ok. There was a little back lash in the keyways on the brass worm gear so i have fitted new keys. But i cant see it being enough to be causing the issues.

I ran out of time to get it back together to re test but i am wondering about the way this saw clamps. Instead of a fixed back clamp jaw and a moving front clamp it has both jaws moving in towards a centre point.

Could this be causing the blade to not be in good cutting angle? For example cutting RHS it really struggled to cut through the top flat, takes ages. Then it breaks through and starts to chatter badly on the side walls, and it seems as though it is trying to drag the box out of clamps.

Any thoughts or suggestions on what the correct cut angle should be?

Thanks
 
How course is your blade and what are you cutting ? A thin piece with a course blade will act like it is chattering. I have a Northern HYD cold saw I think it is a 72 tooth 14" It works good for what I use it for. You aparently have a heavy duty shop machine.
 
Ive tried a 180t and a 220tooth blade. My saw cuts at 40 odd rpm. Yours sounds like it is a high speed saw with tungsten carbide tip blade? I have one of those with a similar tooth count as yours, it is awesome. The only let down is the pressed metal base and clamp isnt as accurate as the heavy duty saw.
 
I have and there was none that i could tell. More the drag of indicator needle than anything else.
I might put a photo tach on it and see what rpms it is doing. From memory i thought it said on it some where 40rpm.

Maybe that is too slow for mild steel?
 
Can you post a picture of the saw? And the blade you are using.
 
Well its been rebuilt, new motor. Still no good. I think ive just been plain ripped off. I think that it is simply not ridgid enough, especially where the main spindle bearing is. The housing that holds it is bolted to the main housing. All other quality saws are one solid housing.

So what do i do with it?

I think i will pull the top part off and mount my high speed cold cut tungsten carbide saw to it. The clamp set up will work well. The pressed steel base it has currently is not that great.

Now find myself with a brand new 2hp motor and a abb vfd. With no idea what to do with it.
 
With nothing in the saw, close the vise jaws till they touch. When closed the points formed should all be in alignment at the center of the saw. (All four of them) If they are not get them so they are. You may be holding one side slightly tighter than the other. It will seem tight to you but that small amount will cause the saw to chatter.

"Billy G"
 
Bill Gruby said:
With nothing in the saw, close the vise jaws till they touch. When closed the points formed should all be in alignment at the center of the saw. (All four of them) If they are not get them so they are. You may be holding one side slightly tighter than the other. It will seem tight to you but that small amount will cause the saw to chatter.

"Billy G"
Click to expand...
I read this and started swearing at my self! I had them offset for an angle cut!

Put them in centre and checked right over. Tried it. Still no good, actually broke a tooth off the blade. Never mind. Worth the try would have been awesome if that was all it was.

I think its tkme to let go. Cant keep ruining $300 blades.
 
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