Improving a plate shear

hman

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A couple weeks ago I was at a meeting of Valley Metal, the Phoenix area machinists' club. I'd mentioned that I was on the way to buy a Pexto stomp shear from a Craigslist seller, but I was concerned about all the floor space it would take up. The president of the club, Marty Escarcega, suggested that I buy a plate shear instead. The seller turned out to be busy on a job, so we didn't get together that day. This gave me time to look at plate shears. I decided to buy one of them instead of the stomp shear, and phoned the seller to cancel. Bought a Shop Fox 12" unit (model M1041, $165) from Amazon.

I got the shear in a couple days (Prime!) and used it to complete my current project. After using it, I decided it needed a couple of improvements. First off, there's a kinda funky "foot" about 2 1/2" diameter, that's supposedly meant to secure the metal stock and prevent it from shifting during a cut.
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The bottom of the foot was slick chrome plating - very little friction or holding power! In an attempt to increase holding power I chucked it up in the lathe and cut some grooves, then lightly sand blasted the bottom.
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No joy. The bottom wasn't very square with the stem, it was hard to adjust, and there was no real back-stop on the shear.

Plan B was to make a new hold-down, based on a De-Sta-Co #604 clamp (Amazon, $18.60). This clamp mounts into a thru hole with 3/4-12 threads. The original mounting post for the foot was a tad less than 1" diameter, so not suitable for 3/4" thread. Turned a new mounting post from some 1 1/4" diameter stock. Milled a flat on the large end, then drilled and tapped to suit. The new foot is a 3/4" wide by 4 1/2" long chunk aluminum. It's drilled 1/2" most of the way through for a 1/2" rod, which is held in place and with a countersunk screw at the bottom. The rod, topped with a 5/16-18 stud and wing nut, can rotate inside the foot. The stud threads into the end of the DeStaCo. Rotating the wing nut provides height adjustment.

I then mounted a length of angle iron to the lower shear bolts, to give the foot something to press against. I also bolted the shear to a pair of 2x6s and added material supports on both sides. Finally, I added a simple handle at the top of the shear to make it easier to lift from the floor (under a table, where it's stored) to the work bench.
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PS - After shearing sheet metal to size, the next step is naturally to fold it. Again, trying to save floor space, I opted for a cheap 18" Harbor Freight bending brake (SKU 39103, $45 before discount). It worked adequately. My main issue was that, even with good clamps securing the hold-down bar, the bar would shift during a bend. I took care of that problem as follows - Raised the folding bar all the way, placed a chunk of 1/16" aluminum between folding bar and hold-down bar, secured the hold-down bar, and match drilled through the hold-down and base at both ends for a couple of pins. I repeated the process with a piece of 1/8" aluminum and a new set of holes. Now I can positively position the hold-down bar. Note in the last photo that the brake is screwed down to a couple of 2x4s, which I can clamp in my woodworking vise. I store the brake on the shelf below when not in use.
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Those are nice shears, they are generically known as a Beverly Shear, I have the B1 from Beverly. Harbor Freight used to sell a copy of the Beverly, most who got the chinese one bought the real beverly blades to make them actually work. Just make sure your blade gap is correct for the thickness of material you are shearing. Tim
 
I've seen that bender, but not the shear- great combo, now I know what to ask Santa for...
M
 
I have that same HF bender, thought I might be throwing money away, but it works OK if you work on appropriate size metals. I also have mine where it can be stored in a small space and then clamped onto a table for doing work with it. Works fine for the small amount of sheet bending that I do.
 
Looks like the identical shear, just blue paint instead of cream. Did you notice the ~½" hole in the upper blade, about 4" forward of the pivot? There's a steel bushing in the casting opposite the blade. Apparently it's a rebar cutter.
 
Apparently it's a rebar cutter.

I had assumed that, based on the description of being capable of cutting 1/2" bar.
I checked the manual, and it had nothing about that hole.

Interestingly, in one of the question and answers at the site I posted above someone replied that it was for a safety lock to latch it closed. :rolleyes:

I have not used it for bar, but that's what I will use it for.

-brino

EDIT: my favourite use so far is to cut heavy expanded metal sheet. I usually do that with an angle grinder, this was so clean and quiet!
 
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Just make sure your blade gap is correct for the thickness of material you are shearing.

Hi Tim,

Got any more details on this?
The manual for mine is useless.
I don't see any means of blade gap adjustment!?!?!?

Thanks
-brino
 
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I can't find anything, either. But I did run into a what-not-to-do while installing the new hold-down. I'd had to remove the arm and disassemble the linkage to the blade a couple times while test fine tuning the new mounting post. Last time I reassembled it, I tightened up all the screws, then backed them off about ¼ turn before tightening the jam nuts. WRONG! This pulled the upper blade slightly away from the lower, and the cut was terrible - kind of a folded over edge at the cut line. Loosened all the bolts except the one that holds the lever to the casting by about 1 full turn, then re-locked the jamnuts. Cuts correctly now.

As far as I can tell, there should be no gap between the blades. If you're planning to install a modified hold-down, make careful note of how snug/loose all the bolts are before you disassemble anything.
 
Nice, I have that same style shear with the same material support but in an 8". But that bender I have never noticed in store while at HF. I do have a small finger brake but now I need one of those! Thanks for helping me spend money. :big grin:
 
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