Introduction - New Atlas Lathe Owner

Red Beard Ops said:
Edit #2: Would some 30 weight or way oil suffice for the gears instead of the grease if you oiled them more frequently?
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As wa5cab said, oil is not desirable for the gear train. Greases made for open gears are sticky, so they won't run off or fling off.

As far a v-belts go, I use a cogged v-belt made by Continental on my DP. It runs smoothly, but it's sized the same as any other
v-belt.
 
Are the felt oil wicks just normal chunks of felt? I have a good deal of felt on hand that I use for etching my maker's mark. Might as well replace them! I'm sure they haven't ever been replaced!... LOL

Edit: On the oil... Any ISO 68~ 20wt non detergent would do right? Is there anything else I should look out for? Does it matter if it's a synthetic blend?
 
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OK, if the back gears are present, the original owner must have bought the 101.07361 one year and the next bought the add-on back gear set. So the nameplate model number remains the same but the actual model number becomes 101.07381. I am carrying it in the database as the current model number, not the nameplate number, with a note in the Notes1 field.

On how to measure two or three pulleys and get an accurate idea or the V-belt required, you have the right idea but missed one detail that will result in your getting a belt too short for the application. And that is that the belt length for both FHP belts and multiple V-belts are measured around the outside to the belt, not the inside. Using a 1/4" diameter cord will result in an error of more than an inch because the cord will run around the pulleys at the bottom of the V-groove and it needs to be running around the outside of the groove. Or in simpler terms, you need to use a cord of 1/2" diameter or if you have it, a 1/2" wide tape measure, which will be direct reading.

Are the two l6-106 Collars pinned to the L6-104 tension rod or do they each have a set screw? None of the parts manuals show this detail.
 
wa5cab said:
OK, if the back gears are present, the original owner must have bought the 101.07361 one year and the next bought the add-on back gear set. So the nameplate model number remains the same but the actual model number becomes 101.07381. I am carrying it in the database as the current model number, not the nameplate number, with a note in the Notes1 field.

On how to measure two or three pulleys and get an accurate idea or the V-belt required, you have the right idea but missed one detail that will result in your getting a belt too short for the application. And that is that the belt length for both FHP belts and multiple V-belts are measured around the outside to the belt, not the inside. Using a 1/4" diameter cord will result in an error of more than an inch because the cord will run around the pulleys at the bottom of the V-groove and it needs to be running around the outside of the groove. Or in simpler terms, you need to use a cord of 1/2" diameter or if you have it, a 1/2" wide tape measure, which will be direct reading.

Are the two l6-106 Collars pinned to the L6-104 tension rod or do they each have a set screw? None of the parts manuals show this detail.
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Well hot darn... I went and remeasured and it's right on the 4L350 and 4L310.... The belt currently on the spindle is way too large... I really hope this machine wasn't run for too many hours with the full weight of the motor on that belt.

Good to know about the model numbers!

I don't think I have the appropriate exploded view parts list. So I'm not sure what items you're looking at. (L6-106 and L6-104)... but I think you're talking about the stop on the tension rod. It's pinned. I've attached some pics.
 

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The felt plugs (which were added sometime after 1957 so they are not shown in the older manuals or lists) are medium density wool felt. If you need something else from Clausing, you may as well buy them from them, as they are cheap. Arch punches don't work well on felt.

Synthetic oil is OK if of the proper viscosity. But don't use anything made for use in an internal combustion engine and advertised as being High Detergent. Some of the additives may actually be beneficial but one or some are designed to absorb moisture from the atmosphere and should not be used in or on anything that does not get hot enough to boil the water off. Such as a lathe. They will cause rust to form in the long run.

And no one has mentioned it but as it says in the lube instructions, most of the lubrication points should be serviced every time that the machine (or function (such as the back gears) is used. Those should be done about monthly or when you use them.
 
Atlas didn't start making exploded view parts lists until circa 1945. The earliest 12" model with one done by them is 101.07304. I have done one on the 101.07402 and 101.07383 and have an incomplete one on 101.07401. I haven't done the others. But yes, you have ID'd the parts correctly.

As the only difference between the ones for the 101.0738x and 101.0736x is the presence or absence of the back gears, I may pr may not ever do one for any of the 101.0736x. Especially since yours has been upgraded to 101.07381 status. Yours also has the cast change gear cover and the sloping legs that strictly speaking belong on the next model, anyway.
 
wa5cab said:
The felt plugs (which were added sometime after 1957 so they are not shown in the older manuals or lists) are medium density wool felt. If you need something else from Clausing, you may as well buy them from them, as they are cheap. Arch punches don't work well on felt.

Synthetic oil is OK if of the proper viscosity. But don't use anything made for use in an internal combustion engine and advertised as being High Detergent. Some of the additives may actually be beneficial but one or some are designed to absorb moisture from the atmosphere and should not be used in or on anything that does not get hot enough to boil the water off. Such as a lathe. They will cause rust to form in the long run.

And no one has mentioned it but as it says in the lube instructions, most of the lubrication points should be serviced every time that the machine (or function (such as the back gears) is used. Those should be done about monthly or when you use them.
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Thank you very much sir for the information! As always.

Very good to know about the felt... mine is acrylic

This is the oil I plan on using it's ISO 68 non-detergent - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-S...ergent-Oil-Air-Compressor-018-0079H/205183905
 
Welcome! I have a similar lathe (101.07403), 12x36. I took the whole thing apart and cleaned and lubed it. It was fun and I learned how the whole machine worked. I also bought belt guards. I have a restoration thread here. In case that doesn't work, here's the whole link:
(https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/arc-170s-craftsman-101-07403-lathe-restoration-thread.74024/

6. (are we on 6? Let's just say yes! Ha!) WAY & BEARING LUBE
I use Mobil Vactra Oil #2 Way Oil for the ways and bearings. You can get it at littlemachineshop.com. Your machine will drip oil. Keep in mind it will leak under the machine. Mine is mounted on a steel top with a wood underlayment and I should probably look and see how much oil is showing. Fill the cups every time you use the machine. The one nearest the chuck needs filling the most.

7. GREASE
I use Lubriplate Gear Shield Extra Heavy on my gears. Comes in a spray can. I got it at my FLAPS. I have covers and it flings off a little, but not much.

8. PAINT
If you want to paint your machine, Krylon Regal Blue is supposed to be the closest color to the original blue. It is my understanding that Atlas painted most of the lathes they made for Craftsman blue, while theirs were all dark gray. For some reason mine is sparkly green. I think it was painted in the 70's while under the influence. I just kept it the same.

9. OTHER THOUGHTS
a. This is not a very stiff machine, so take light cuts.
b. I get some funky patterns and sounds when using the auto feed. I think there is something loose or bent, so I'm currently chasing that. The machine still makes functional parts, though. Turn a rod with the auto-feed and see what happens.
c. I used Simple Green, kerosene and elbow grease to clean everything. The old grease tends to dry and get crusty, so parts seem like they are stuck, but they are just "glued" together with gunk.

BTW: You picked up and carried your lathe?! I'm impressed! I had to use an engine hoist.

Have fun!
 
ARC-170 said:
8. PAINT
If you want to paint your machine, Krylon Regal Blue is supposed to be the closest color to the original blue. It is my understanding that Atlas painted most of the lathes they made for Craftsman blue, while theirs were all dark gray. For some reason mine is sparkly green. I think it was painted in the 70's while under the influence. I just kept it the same.
Click to expand...
Prior to 1957, Sears had Atlas change the color about every 3 or 4 years. Blue was common. So was green. Gold was used during Sears' 50th Anniversary year. And maybe a couple of other colors. Around 1957, Atlas changed the color of both their machines (which had been dark machinery gray) and the ones that they made for Sears to Machinery Gray. The 12" machines remained that color through the end in 1981. But almost all of the MK 2 6" were painted blue except for the first few hundred.

And of course, some recent restorers may have re-painted them in most any color.
 
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