Introduction

I really need this thread.

Then bed on my SB Heavy 10 is well worn, Particularaly the tailstock ways.
I am living with it but perhaps some day I should do something.
 
Benji said:
I really need this thread.

Then bed on my SB Heavy 10 is well worn, Particularaly the tailstock ways.
I am living with it but perhaps some day I should do something.
Click to expand...

Dear Benji,

If you want to see how bad it is. take apart the tail-stock and split the top from the bottom. On 99% of all tail stock ways under where the chuck those tail-stock ways are original, they may have some dings you can file off, but the tail-stock never got that close to the head-stock and on the far right hand end of the tail-stock ways seldom see much use, so I say the are original. Run the saddle into the middle of the bed, take off your chuck and file or stone the dings on the ways as close to the head-stock, tail-stock ways . Take the lower 1/2 of tail-stock and place it on the ways up there, then put a mag base on it and put the indicator on the clearance area between the tail-stock and saddle bed ways. If you think about it, when they machined the bed ways they machined the saddle ways, the tail-stock bed ways, the under side for hold downs and the clearance areas between the ways. Those clearance area have never seen any wear so you can assume they are straight or original. Crank the saddle to the far right and then slide the tail-stock to the right and check the wear of the tail-stock ways compared to the clearance surfaces. After you determine the wear in the tail-stock ways you can use the same method to test the saddle bed ways. I always say to machine scrapers, if it is worn more then .005" get it machined, But if your not into scraping and need to buy the tools and learn how, you might be money ahead to have someone machine the bed. Let me know how bad it is. And we can decide what to do. The tail-stock is no doubt low and pointing down in front. We can talk about that too, later. Rich
 
Many years ago, Dad and I threw around the idea of mounting his 9" SBL on a piece of 2" thich surfaced ground steel plate. It never happen.

We slowly built up a small shop of larger equipment to take place of the need of the 9" SBL. That, and we were always fortunate to have access to larger machines when needed.
 
This is a South Bend Heavy 10
Three prismatic ways and one flat way.

On the far end of the bed, almost to the back, on the flat way I placed a 1/2" wide by 1/16 thick by 18" ling, Starrett precision ground flat stock. 1/16" diminsion against the way. I can slide a total 0.014 in feeler gages under the ground stock. At 0.010" thickness the feeler will move about 8" in length before touching the ground stock.
Close to the chuck were I use it the most its much much better.

I reciently changed the base on the tailstock since the old one was badly tilted.
 
Benji said:
This is a South Bend Heavy 10
Three prismatic ways and one flat way.

On the far end of the bed, almost to the back, on the flat way I placed a 1/2" wide by 1/16 thick by 18" ling, Starrett precision ground flat stock. 1/16" diminsion against the way. I can slide a total 0.014 in feeler gages under the ground stock. At 0.010" thickness the feeler will move about 8" in length before touching the ground stock.
Close to the chuck were I use it the most its much much better.

I reciently changed the base on the tailstock since the old one was badly tilted.
Click to expand...

I would look around for a company with a planer, planner mill, a surface grinder or way grinder. Scraping those 3 V ways and keeping them parallel is a pain for even a pro. I would send it out if I had the job.
 
I've purchased the Lindsay reprint book on scraping, and have a set of asian scrapers (flat, triangular, etc) which appear to be carbon steel, and around 10-12" in length...
I recall reading that a scraper should be longer... is that correct?

I can change the handles on this set of three to make them longer, but will the blades stand up to the higher leverage, or am I worrying for nothing?

thanks,
Des in Oz
 
desbromilow said:
I've purchased the Lindsay reprint book on scraping, and have a set of asian scrapers (flat, triangular, etc) which appear to be carbon steel, and around 10-12" in length...
I recall reading that a scraper should be longer... is that correct?

I can change the handles on this set of three to make them longer, but will the blades stand up to the higher leverage, or am I worrying for nothing?

thanks,
Des in Oz
Click to expand...

Welcome to our site.

The ones you purchased are more of machinist scraper set I would think. The triangle one is used for de-burring holes and scraping inside bronze bushings. I prefer a carbide tipped scraper as shown in the famous brand http://www.andersonscraper.com/Anderson-Hand-Scrapers.php I am 6'3" tall and I prefer a 18" to 22" long scraper. I own a Biax hand scraper (and 4 Biax Power Scrapers and one 1/2 moon flaker) as shown at http://dapra.com/biax/scrapers/accessories.htm

I would suggest anyone interested in hand scraping buy a copy of Machine Tool Reconditioning . You can find them in the net or I believe Lindsay Publishing and I know DAPRA sells them. You are right about the leverage of a longer scraper.

There is a very good teacher and scraper down under ..I forgot his site name , but his first name is Phil. He hosted a scraping seminar in Melbourne last year I think. I will check and see if I can find his proper info and let you know. You will also get a flat rubber pad and screw it onto the handle to push the scraper with your body and not use your arms as much. I will have to learn how to download some photo's as I have tons showing push and pull scraping and power scraping.
Thanks again for signing up. Richard
 
Thanks Richard,

I've heard of Phil (seen him mentioned in the Aust woodworkers forum) - melbourne is a fair distance from me, but I do continue to read what I can, and make mistakes at home.
I'll work myself up to the bigger scraper by making one to use the carbide tip I've read about.
Once you mentioned the scraping of bushes, I realised I'd seen my scrapers in an article on refurbishing myford lathes - makes perfect sense now.

I'll continue to read and play here, and if I make it to melbourne, I'll look Phil up.

Thanks, and thanks for the welcome
Des

Hello Des,
I talked to a friend who I thought was Phil named Rich (senior moment, lol) on PM where I know Phil writes andI asked Rich to help and he is going to contact you and or Phil, try to help. He mentioned the wood working group would be your ticket as they all watch that blog. I have many senior moments with names...lol...so I apolizie to everyone for getting things mixed up. You will discover this site is more relaxed and they don't have "angry" people s I have seen on the other well known site. I write in all of them, but this will be my home and I hope we can get a big following in the future too. Have a safe weekend. Richard King

Hi Rich, I am not Phil (like you I am a Richard ), but am a friend of his and I partly helped organise the first scraping class we had down here...

If you want I can pass this onto him or if you want you can send him a private message... If Des wants to learn scraping, his best bet is to join the aus wood working forum he mentioned and post in the metal working bit,http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ that is where we got most of the people who went to the two scraping classes from..... Probably doubtful we will hold another one as we had trouble getting numbers for the last one we had, plenty of initial interest, but we lost quite a few people closer to the class date and ended up with barely enough to make it worth it...

Regards, Richard.....
 
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Just found this thread. Very good so far.

Rich
enjoyed talking with you on the phone the other day when you were headed for the PO. I ordered your DVD off Ebay looking forward to it arriving.

I've been scraping on a project for a few days now and have one low corner that just does not want to arrive level with the rest of the surface.

Dave
 
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