Is there some way to lock the spindle of a RF-20 from turning for tool changes?

Speedly

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Hello!

I have a Rong Fu RF-20, as mentioned in the title. Tool changes are kind of a pain, as the spindle has a tendency to turn with the wrench when trying to tighten or loosen tooling. For the record, I am rather inexperienced with this mill (and mills in general) - I inherited it from my grandfather and have only started to use it recently.

I did find the manual online, but there doesn't seem to be any mention of such a lock; the manual just says to loosen or tighten the draw bar and strike it in order to release the tool.

Can someone point me in the right direction as to how to stop the spindle, or is there some kind of nuance to tool changes in this mill I'm unaware of?

Thanks!
 
To tighten/loosen the drawbar without a lock or brake I’ve just used the inertia of the spindle and firmly/rapidly nudged the wrench several times. There are several YouTube videos on adding a brake to a Rong Fu mill. Search “rong fu spindle lock”
 
Just grab the spindle pully with left hand and use a wrench with your right hand
 
My machine has a spindle lock, and I'm afraid to use it because I know one day I'll turn the machine on with it engaged. It's a set screw that goes through the quill and engages the spindle. I use a combination of inertia and hand holding the pulley as the others have said. Once the threads in your collets are broken in and smooth, and with practice, it shouldn't be a problem. I do like to "tag out" my machine by pulling the plug before I stick my hands on the drive gear....
 
I grab the both sides of the belt near the spindle pulley with one hand on my small clausing mill
 
I have an RF30 clone and for the past forty years, I have just grabbed the spindle pulley to change tooling. However, there are times, e.g. when I want to sweep an edge with a spindle mounted dial test indicator, when I want to positively lock the spindle. I have used a woodworking clamp across the belts but it is not ideal.

I made a wrench for the splined shaft for the Grizzly G0755 which would work but the quill has to be retracted to within 1/2" of travel. Another possibility would be to make a box wrench for the 2-3/16" hex spindle nut. Either can easily be made with an RT on the mill. I used 1/2" aluminum plate but 1/4" aluminum or steel would work.

Spline Wrench.JPG
 
I use ER32 collets exclusively in my mill/drill. No fiddling with the drawbar. A large wench on the adapter and the collet wrench on the collet.
 
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