Is this a 3 Phase Static Converter?

Uglydog said:
Copy,
N38 thermals.
Scored some on Ebay.

Check amp on each leg.....
Ah.... got an amp meter.... how do I check amp on each leg?
How do I set the meter?
Where do I connect/touch the probes?
Off the 3 fuses in the box going to the panel in the pics?
Where does the other probe connect/touch to?
Should the motor be Gisholt motor be running or just the Rotary?
Click to expand...


Daryl,
As much iron as you are acquiring lately may I make a suggestion? You might be able to do it with a regular “Lead Type Meter” but it’s a little tricky, amps is like flow in hydraulics, so it always has to be measured in series only! If it hooks directly across the supply lines it will blow the protection fuses, if it has them, and maybe damage the meter! I would suggest you either borrow or buy a “clamp on AC Ammeter” The AC only ones are not a whole pile of money, home depot and lowes have them, maybe around $69, with them there is a small circle type clamp that opens up on the end and you just set the scale to ac amps, , and close the loop around each wire feeding the motor one at a time, and read the amps. In the contactors we have at work we test monthly, we leave a little extra wire in the panels so it is easy to put the clamp amp meter onto them. It really only takes maybe 20 seconds and tells you a lot!

The regular amp scales on a general purpose millimeters, usually only go to 10 amps, maybe 20, and if you read the instructions, it is only meant to be on there a very short amount of time, (duty cycle). So when your motor starts it will be way over the meter rating! They are designed more for like testing amps on stuff like, car stereos, cb’s, fog lites, and stuff like that.
Bob in Oregon
 
Uglydog said:
Prices for clamp ons vary widely.
Like everything else, you likely get what you pay for.
Would either of these work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-on-multimeter-95652.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-meter-96308.html

Thank you all for your patience.

Daryl
MN
Click to expand...

Daryl,

Yes I say you get what you pay for!, Keep in mind here you are making a go / no go decision, on a 10 hp 3 phase motor, this is a pretty expensive item!, plus all the labor to remove and install it, The HF Electrical stuff can go either way good, or bad depending on, soldering, production tolerances, + a lot more, etc! I would opt for a little better item, but that’s also me. Lets look at it this way if you get a Greenlee, or Amprobe amp clamp, it will out live you and me, and you can pass it on to your kids. Nothing wrong here with being thrifty, that is why I buy everything online! Where I live in Portland, Oregon a small cheap store front, runs about $5000 a month, which is passed on to me, NOT! I don't care if I buy Greenlee,Amprobe, or any other item, in South Dakota, or another state, as long as it is the same P/N! I would LOVE to buy local, but if all I am doing is supporting a corrupt, Oregon Government I will NOT! So if you really want a deal on a clamp on meter, figure out the P/N you want, and Google it for the best price! The downside is you you have to wait, a little for shipping it to you!

Hope this helps Bob in Oregon
 
Uglydog said:
Copy,
N38 thermals.
Scored some on Ebay.
A) Nice, the N38 will give protection but won't cut out so quickly!

Check amp on each leg.....
Ah.... got an amp meter.... how do I check amp on each leg?
A) Do you have a inductive meter(clamp on style) or do you have a multimeter with leads?
How do I set the meter?
A) on the dial there will be a letter A, a is for testing amperes. if there are different settings you will use AC 50 Amp setting
were do I connect/touch the probes?

A word of caution many multimeters designed for homeowners don't really have much more than a 10 amp capacity, clamp on meters generally have larger capacities.

A) if you have a clamp on, you simply clamp around the wire and as current flows through the wire the meter will detect its current flow. If you have a multimeter with probes, you will need to disconnect the wire you wish to measure and hook that wire up to one probe of the meter, then connect the other probe of the meter where the wire used to be attached. Your amp meter is now in series with the circuit and can measure the current while the circuit is energized.
The Amps symbol you want to use on the meter looks like this AC~

For testing voltage, you will simply hold one test lead on one of the motor connection terminals at the motor or contactor pole, and take the other lead and touch it to another motor terminal or contactor pole.

You'll set your meter for 250v AC~ to test voltage. Touch red with one probe and black with the other and write the readings down, then hold the red probe and switch the other probe to white and write down the reading.
you can try this in any combination.
Where does the other probe connect/touch to?
Off the 3 fuses in the box going to the panel in the pics?
A) if you are going to test where the fuses are no worries, just make sure all the fuses are good or you could get a false reading

Should the motor be Gisholt motor be running or just the Rotary?
Click to expand...
A) i would test the RPC solo at first to get a baseline. then after completing testing , i'd fire up the lathe and perform the testing again on both the RPC and the
lathe.

I know it's a little confusing sometimes, let me know if this makes sense, we don't want to get you zapped!!!
mike:))

- - - Updated - - -

Uglydog said:
Prices for clamp ons vary widely.
Like everything else, you likely get what you pay for.
Would either of these work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-on-multimeter-95652.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-meter-96308.html


Thank you all for your patience.
Daryl
MN
Click to expand...

Yes, Daryl they would work and are inexpensive. were' just looking for an approximation of amps anyway...
mike

- - - Updated - - -

Uglydog said:
Looks like this Amprobe should do the job?

http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ACD-6...&sr=8-2&keywords=amprobe+clamp+on+multi+meter
Click to expand...

Yep Daryl, that's a good one too.
Graingers has a Fluke meter inexpensively that has an amp fork and probes as well, they are right around $85
if you want to get into something a little heavier duty, but it is not necessary to spend a lot of money to get you tested out.
mike
 
Last edited:
I ordered a clamp on multi meter.
I also ordered new in shelf worn boxes N33 and N38 for next to nothing on Ebay.
Both are enroute.
Please anticipate that I may attempt to provoke you into coaching me further when they arrive.

Thank you,
Daryl
MN
 
Uglydog said:
I ordered a clamp on multi meter.
I also ordered new in shelf worn boxes N33 and N38 for next to nothing on Ebay.
Both are enroute.
Please anticipate that I may attempt to provoke you into coaching me further when they arrive.

Thank you,
Daryl
MN
Click to expand...

Good score!!
those heaters are going out of fashion, but they are reliable until they shut down a few times.
a couple extras if they are cheap wouldn't hurt, most hardware stores,... etc. don't carry them.

make sure you replace both heaters with the same number when you do it, don't use 1 N33 and 1 N38 on the machine!!

I'll be here if you need more coaching anytime, Daryl!!
no worries!!
mike:))
 
Uglydog said:
Looks like this Amprobe should do the job?

http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ACD-6...&sr=8-2&keywords=amprobe+clamp+on+multi+meter
Click to expand...

Daryl,

I know it sounds like I was trying to spend your money, but I am glad you made this choice! Anything from HF, that is electrical I figure it is maybe good for one , or maybe 2 uses! Let me caution you, I can say no matter which ampmeter you get, be pretty careful about dropping it! The core that opens up, to sense the current field can be pretty fragile, other than that I think once you get this, you will use it for all kinds of stuff at your place! Even on single phase stuff!

Take Care Bob in Oregon
 
Gents; The "N" series AB heater is just the heater portion only. If you step up you may also use the "W" series heater which has the heater and aforementioned solder spindle included. To use the "W" series remove the existing solder spindle by removing the two small screws under the heater on the overload block. The spindle is spring loaded so will jump out at you when you loosen the second screw. Relax, this is normal! Throw the old solder pot and two screws away and insert the new heater with the two original large screws. Now push the reset button/bar and the unit will be good to go.

Both series of heaters are wound with the same size nichrome wire so the numbers on the heater remain the same. Check the motor name plate, the consult the heater chart and get the heater that as close as possible matches the amp draw of the motor. Do not oversize. Heaters are already sized to allow a twenty five percent overload without tripping. Remember this is a slow operation. The motor must remain in an overload condition for a period of time before tripping. This allows time for the heat to build up in the motor and temporary overload conditions to cure themselves. The fuses/breaker ahead of the starter are there for the instantaneous disruption of power should a serious overload or short circuit or ground take place. A oversized heater will allow the motor to cook and basically provides no protection at all. Insulation break down caused by excessive heat is what this is all about. The reason motors burn out.

By the way, the starter you have is indeed an oldie but a goodie. Should anything happen to it you may have trouble getting repair parts. I would plan on scrapping it when the time comes and replacing with something produced in the 20th or 21st century. Just a thought.

HTH
 
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