- Joined
- Apr 21, 2013
- Messages
- 208
I disassembled my Jacobs 14N chuck yesterday and thought I'd share some photos. I imagine this chuck is similar to most of Jacobs ball bearing chucks.
Mine worked great from 1/4" to 1/2", but was binding below 1/4" and wouldn't even tighten up past 1/8".
I started by pressing the outer ring off of the chuck. You'll need a ring to fit this position of the chuck (photo 1)
![chuck1.jpg chuck1.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34281-a8755e52916f7098a8a0d032a87ee480.jpg)
Once the outer ring is removed, you can remove the bearing balls through the small notch, at which point the split race will come off.
![chuck2.jpg chuck2.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34282-fd0833d61b1a7e6152a78713cd6629f8.jpg)
Here are all the parts of the chuck. Since each jaw is different, when I removed each jaw, I made a note as to which one was in which position of the chuck (actually, I took a photo that showed the teeth of the jaw and the lettering on the chuck so I'd know what position to put them back in later)
![chuck3.jpg chuck3.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34283-e1631ef4a68dde0fd67df52500648266.jpg)
After a through cleaning, the jaws still wouldn't operate smoothly in the farthest out position. It turns out that there were a few small burrs at the mouth of the chuck. I used a fine stone in a Dremel tool to clean them up and that took care of the problem completely.
![chuck4.jpg chuck4.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34284-d77b4994e405f4659439c8ffc89bc7ee.jpg)
To reassemble, reverse the process and press the outer ring back on, using the key teeth as the position to press against.
Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio
![chuck4.jpg chuck4.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34284-d77b4994e405f4659439c8ffc89bc7ee.jpg)
Mine worked great from 1/4" to 1/2", but was binding below 1/4" and wouldn't even tighten up past 1/8".
I started by pressing the outer ring off of the chuck. You'll need a ring to fit this position of the chuck (photo 1)
![chuck1.jpg chuck1.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34281-a8755e52916f7098a8a0d032a87ee480.jpg)
Once the outer ring is removed, you can remove the bearing balls through the small notch, at which point the split race will come off.
![chuck2.jpg chuck2.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34282-fd0833d61b1a7e6152a78713cd6629f8.jpg)
Here are all the parts of the chuck. Since each jaw is different, when I removed each jaw, I made a note as to which one was in which position of the chuck (actually, I took a photo that showed the teeth of the jaw and the lettering on the chuck so I'd know what position to put them back in later)
![chuck3.jpg chuck3.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34283-e1631ef4a68dde0fd67df52500648266.jpg)
After a through cleaning, the jaws still wouldn't operate smoothly in the farthest out position. It turns out that there were a few small burrs at the mouth of the chuck. I used a fine stone in a Dremel tool to clean them up and that took care of the problem completely.
![chuck4.jpg chuck4.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34284-d77b4994e405f4659439c8ffc89bc7ee.jpg)
To reassemble, reverse the process and press the outer ring back on, using the key teeth as the position to press against.
Jack
Fort Loramie, Ohio
![chuck1.jpg chuck1.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34281-a8755e52916f7098a8a0d032a87ee480.jpg)
![chuck2.jpg chuck2.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34282-fd0833d61b1a7e6152a78713cd6629f8.jpg)
![chuck3.jpg chuck3.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34283-e1631ef4a68dde0fd67df52500648266.jpg)
![chuck4.jpg chuck4.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/34/34284-d77b4994e405f4659439c8ffc89bc7ee.jpg)