Just bought a Starrett 6" machinist level (lathe leveling)

[Pcmaker]

Just ordered a Starrett 6" level.

I haven't leveled my lathe before, it's a PM1127

My plan is to use 123 blocks on the opposing ways close to the headstock, set my level, zero the bubble on the level

Then go to the tailstock end, set the 123 blocks and level on that end and lift one leg until the bubble is exactly as it is on the the headstock.

Do you guys recommed using feeler gauges to prop up one leg of the lathe? My bench does not have adjustable feet. My lathe is bolted to the workbench.

The carriage is easy to turn when it's close to the headstock, but gets harder when I move it to the middle and gets easier as I move closer to the tailstock.

 

[darkzero]

I use 123 blocks also.

As for your carriage it's probably not bed twist causing that unless it's twisted bad. First check under the ways where the carriage "gibs" ride for gunk, body filler, paint, etc.

 

[Winegrower]

I just leveled my Takisawa lathe using a 12” Starrett machinist level and 123 blocks. This lathe has adjusting bolts in 6 places, and I was quite impressed at how sensitive the level was. Near the end, maybe a 5 degree wrench movement would shift the bubble an index mark. I am nerdy enough that it was kinda fun.

 

[Winegrower]

The Takisawa is a very beefy lathe, can’t really say it made much difference...but the manual makes a big deal out of it. So...I did it.

 

[darkzero]

The Takisawa is a very beefy lathe, can’t really say it made much difference...but the manual makes a big deal out of it. So...I did it.

Did you make test cuts, before & after?

 

[Pcmaker]

Didn't know there's Japanese lathes til just now

 

[darkzero]

Didn't know there's Japanese lathes til just now

Surely you've heard of Mori Seiki & Mazak? Those are 2 big names. There are a number of others though.

 

[Winegrower]

I didn’t take the time to make test cuts...duh. Afterward I cut about a 9” steel bar on centers, was .001 smaller at the chuck end. Have to figure out if I care enough to do more. And Pcmaker, check out Takisawa 800D. Japanese design, still in production, in Taiwan, but not distributed in the US anymore. It is terrific.

 

[darkzero]

I didn’t take the time to make test cuts...duh. Afterward I cut about a 9” steel bar on centers, was .001 smaller at the chuck end. Have to figure out if I care enough to do more. And Pcmaker, check out Takisawa 800D. Japanese design, still in production, in Taiwan, but not distributed in the US anymore. It is terrific.

Make a test cut without the tailstock to see if it cuts a taper, turning between centers will also factor in how far your tailstock is out of alignment. Point of leveling is to remove bed twist, not necessarily level to the world.

Use a sharp cutter to minimize deflection, use a bar that's large in enough in diameter to avoid deflection as well. Again, test cut without tail stock support. It's not uncommon to tweak the leveling after leveling "perfect" with a level to remove any little taper that the lathe still may cut. This process will also tell you if your headstock is in alignment.

I level the lathe first, make a test cut, adjust until I'm happy with how little taper is cut, then adjust the tailstock by turning between centers to align the tailstock.

 

[benmychree]

A Starrett 6" level is nowhere sensitive enough to level any lathe, the grads are .005" per foot; the level used for machinery leveling and alignment is 10 times more sensitive, .0005" per foot, a #98 level is not going to do the job.