King FDM-5 Drill Press handles

grhm

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So I acquired an old "King Machinery" 5-speed drill press (FDM-5) for next to nothing (which is roughly what it's worth, in my inexpert opinion). The handles for raising and lowering the spindle are... well, two don't exist, and calling the third "rough" would be giving it way too much credit.

First, what are the odds I could just buy three handles with knobs and call it a day? I'm the farthest thing from an expert, though, so identifying the threads in the first place could be a challenge. I'm reasonably confident they're 12 TPI, and I measured the major diameter at .485, so I guess that makes 9/16-12 the most likely candidate?

If that's unlikely, I could, I guess, use some threading practice. The holes in the... whatever it's called... are also in rough shape, so I guess I could make my threads oversized and attempt to tighten things up a bit. Is a rank amateur like me likely to be successful in a job like this?

Lastly, a bizarre situation. The... handle-base... seems to be two parts; the complex part with the splines and stuff, and the "cap" part that the handles thread into, which also includes the "track" that the depth stop sits in. This "cap" is hollow, and the one handle threads far enough in that it goes past the threads and just sorta... flops around in there. Am I to assume that if all three handles were present, they'd tighten up against each other inside there, or is there further damage/missing parts?
 

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So I acquired an old "King Machinery" 5-speed drill press (FDM-5) for next to nothing (which is roughly what it's worth, in my inexpert opinion). The handles for raising and lowering the spindle are... well, two don't exist, and calling the third "rough" would be giving it way too much credit.

First, what are the odds I could just buy three handles with knobs and call it a day? I'm the farthest thing from an expert, though, so identifying the threads in the first place could be a challenge. I'm reasonably confident they're 12 TPI, and I measured the major diameter at .485, so I guess that makes 9/16-12 the most likely candidate?

If that's unlikely, I could, I guess, use some threading practice. The holes in the... whatever it's called... are also in rough shape, so I guess I could make my threads oversized and attempt to tighten things up a bit. Is a rank amateur like me likely to be successful in a job like this?

Lastly, a bizarre situation. The... handle-base... seems to be two parts; the complex part with the splines and stuff, and the "cap" part that the handles thread into, which also includes the "track" that the depth stop sits in. This "cap" is hollow, and the one handle threads far enough in that it goes past the threads and just sorta... flops around in there. Am I to assume that if all three handles were present, they'd tighten up against each other inside there, or is there further damage/missing parts?

What?

I'm assuming that you would like to improve your capabilities (while repairing the DP) so I'm going to approach it along that vector.

First thing is to identify the pitch of the thread in the pinion shaft hub. The common effective way of doing that is to compare the mating male thread pitch to a thread pitch gauge. Oh, you don't have a thread pitch gauge? Buy the best gauge you can manage. It will last a lifetime.



.485" is closest to .500" (not 9/16" (.5625). If the hub is tapped 12 TPI, buy a 1/2-12 tap (McMaster and others sell them) and re-tap the hub.
1/2-12 is no longer a "standard" thread but I believe it was quite common at one time and pops up once in a while.

If the hub is tapped 13 TPI, re-tap 1/2-13 UNC.

Make new 3 handles threaded on one 1/2-13UNC for commercially available knobs and, on the other end, as required to fit the reworked hub.
 
I figured 9/16 only because the thread example I have here is in *very* bad shape, and as you say, 1/2-12 isn't a common thread size.

I do have a thread pitch gauge (not Starrett, but it's a decent US-made one), and I'm pretty confident in the 12 TPI. It's definitely not 13 TPI.

Honestly, if I could just buy handles, I'd probably go that route, but I'm also willing to make them if I need to. I'd probably rather not spend $40 on a tap, though, since the DP almost certainly isn't worth that...
 
I figured 9/16 only because the thread example I have here is in *very* bad shape, and as you say, 1/2-12 isn't a common thread size.

I do have a thread pitch gauge (not Starrett, but it's a decent US-made one), and I'm pretty confident in the 12 TPI. It's definitely not 13 TPI.

Honestly, if I could just buy handles, I'd probably go that route, but I'm also willing to make them if I need to. I'd probably rather not spend $40 on a tap, though, since the DP almost certainly isn't worth that...

Did you shop for a more attractive price?
 
Did you shop for a more attractive price?

Well, Amazon lists a couple, BSW and UNC threads (I'm not sure which I'd need), for ~$15ish. Shars doesn't have a 1/2-12, that's the other place I'd try for "cheap" tooling...
 
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