We have a king VTL at work which has some problems in the transmission. The people that have been there for a while were able to get a decent list of parts needing replacement and even managed to get the parts on hand gears etc.
That is what the machine looks like, The only problem is that they were unable to get the end off the transmission to implement repairs (ironic since we are a repair facility). They used several methods before I started working there that wouldn't have been on my list of things to do, and the plant supervisor stopped further attempts saying "there must be something else".
the end in question is in red. The motor is coupled to the top shaft. Right now we have 2 speeds that work but they are at extremes of the range like 12 rpm and 1200 rpm.
I'm hoping one of you have been into one of these before and can help assure the boss that it is simply a bugger to remove after the fasteners and bearing retainers are removed.
There are no jacking bolts which would make life easy. There are chisel marks on the casing juncture applenty but it is unknown whether that method worked or failed in the past (I am assured it wasn't our crew who did it).
Without some pictures of the transmission, kind of hard to tell what is going on.
Are you absolutely sure that is a cover marked in "red"? If it is a cover which it probably is, the previous owner could have "Loctited" the cover back on. If they did, good luck on getting it off.
I would suggest drilling and tapping some holes in various places and use some bolts for "jacks" to help jar the cover loose. I've got a hugh slide hammer dad used to use to break down big stuff like that.)
I have worked on a few King's in my career and several Bullards. On the last Bullard I did the maintenance man that was helping me could not get off a vertical shaft bracket and I went over and scraped off 40 years of paint and found some bolts that had filled with dirt and someone had painted over the dirt. So I would suggest taking your carbide tipped hand scraper and scrape off some paint. Then look at the shafts to be sure there are no hidden snap rings, double lock nuts, like 4GSr said look for some jack screws that could be filled with dirt and paint too. Only in one out of a 1000 have I ever drilled and made jack screws. Back when that machine was made they made it so the machinist could fix it and not an engineer. Back then they also used hard and soft setting Permatex gasket paste and it would act like glue. If you have too scrape all the paint off look under all covers and gears. Contact the outfit you bought the parts from and be sure you have the right book. Ask them if there is an old timer they can recommend you can call. I would take every cover off the other sides of the machine and Check to be sure there are no cross shafts under or bold holding something from the other side. And take your time, set down and get a game plan. I know a Fellow named Roger Poladario out in Christiansburg VA who has been rebuilding machines for 40 yrs who I bet could figure it out. I am sure I could too if I was there. If all else fails drill and tap some jack screws like 4 said near the chistle marks. Take some more picture too as 4 said and lets see. I can't see that picture to hot either. Email us a picture. send it to Richard@Handscraping.com I am a journeyman machine tool rebuilder for over 40 years. You can also call me.. I am in Missouri and my cell phone doesn't work here, but you can email me..and I can call you. Rich
We can't take pictures without approval from way up the corp chain, but they have old pictures (with permission) from when they were working on it previously. Good thing too because it is all back together and the coupling guard covers what looks suspiciously like jacking bolt holes in the pictures below.
With the motor connected you can't see the bottom hole either.
I won't be back on site until Tues to have another look. If those turn out to be jacking bolt holes I'll be having a few concerns about my coworkers.
Sometimes they didn't tap the holes all the way thru and you needed to slide in a dowel pin in under the jack screw. I would also look to be sure there are no cross shafts. Get some long Allen bolts and install them in the top 2 holes so when you jack it out it sides out on them. In some Bullard we made a bracket with a counterweight on the back so when you lifted the rear gear-case the counter the weight of the transmission. One more thing. Put it in the low range before you turn it off. and as it comes off don't turn he gear train until you can take some pictures or make some marks on the gears so when you pull it apart, it might be timed. I have found it is easier to find the low gears then high gears when re-assembling. Rich
PS:
I double checked the picture and the top drive shafts looks like it has a tapped hole in the end. If that is a pipe thread I would suspect the Timken bearing or the drive gear is mounted on a tapered shaft and you use a porta power to pressurize and expand the bearing or gear enough to expand it a little and it will fly off the shaft. I would install the bearing retainer nut 5 or 6 turns before pressurizing it. You can look up on the SKF website and they show how it works.
Also look for tapered dowel pins. You may have to drill and tap them to use a slide hammer to pull them before you jack it out.
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