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Knurled Tool

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WarrenP

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oskar

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Thats very interesting. I sent email asking some details. It could be a good alternative
 

mikey

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Nicolas, if you go with that Hemmingway kit, please do a review if you can. I am curious to see how much actual machining is required to assemble this knurler. Hopefully, most of it is done for you because their price is pretty high for some small bits of steel. If it can be done without the use of a milling machine then I think this is a really good option.
 

oskar

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Good point Mike

I already sent an email to ask for the shipping cost but I will send another one now to ask what work is involved plus to include a set of knurls since I don’t know their size.

Regarding the cost of the unit I think it will be less expensive than the one we talked yesterday because the cost of 23.90 Pound includes 20% VAT tax which I don’t have to pay.
 

oskar

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Looks like no one is at the Hemingwaykits site. Sent 2 emails last Saturday and as of now I have no response. Most likely I will give up on them
 

ddickey

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Have you checked your junk folder?
 

oskar

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I don’t have junk folder but I have trash folder and nothing is there. In any case I never set any antispam rules in my email program and never had any problem before or missing emails.

Perhaps is something common in England? Last month I sent email to another British company from eBay and never got a reply. I went ahead and ordered the items I wanted and on the eBay invoice I had to ask the vendor to reduce the sipping cost since I was buying a few items from the same place. The guy came the next day and all went fine, but never answered my email!
 

Aaron_W

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This is awesome, I've been thinking about knurling after making a few small things that would be nicer knurled. I was getting ready to ask about the Sherline knurling tool and this thread popped up in the featured thread box. Another project to add to the list.


Hi Mike

I understand your concern about the mild steel but it’s only about a month I have my mini lathe and never used a lathe before so I’m hesitant to use steel right now.

If you use 12L14 it isn't bad at all. I was also reluctant to using steel on my Sherline, particularly after working with some cold rolled steel that was not so easy to work with.

I'm using 12L14 for the crank shaft on a little wobbler steam engine and other than taking smaller cuts, I'm not finding it any more difficult to work with than brass or aluminum.
 

oskar

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I like that design and its simpler
 

Cadillac STS

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I own the Sherline knurler and it works. However, it is nowhere near as good as a scissors knurler. The problem is that nobody makes a good scissors knurler for the Sherline/Taig sized lathes so I made my own by looking at a single blurry picture of a knurler made by Chris Heapy of the UK. Maybe these pics will be enough to get your thinking going:

View attachment 267095View attachment 267094View attachment 267096

All mild steel, aluminum spacers, aluminum mounting block. Knurls are from FormRol, pins are drill blanks. There is zero play between the plates and arms but the arms move freely; it is extremely rigid. Capacity is 1/8" to 2-1/4" OD. It will knurl everything we commonly work with, from plastics to brass to steel to stainless steel. It mounts solidly to the Sherline cross slide with two T-nuts.

I do not have plans for it but can give you details if you have questions. I will tell you that there is no comparison between this knurler and the Sherline tool.
Would you consider taking this all apart, setting the parts altogether with a scale in the picture? A few different angles of the setup also. This way it would be easier for someone to see and replicate it.

As is sometimes said a picture (with a scale in the background) is worth 1000 words.

Current readers may not need it but years of future searchers would appreciate that. And this thread is good enough already to show up searching.
 

oskar

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I found this knurl tool on youtube by Curt Filipowski


I consider making this one after I get my knurl wheels from Formtol. Mike’s is the best I have seen so far but kind too difficult for my limited experience.
 

ddickey

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Toms Techniques makes a nice looking one also.
 

mikey

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Would you consider taking this all apart, setting the parts altogether with a scale in the picture? A few different angles of the setup also. This way it would be easier for someone to see and replicate it.
Yeah, breakdown pics would be useful. I'll try to do it as soon as I can.
 

mikey

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@Cadillac STS, here you go. Not sure how the picture quality will be. First pic shows all the parts in relative position. You can see that the arms hinge on a stainless steel bushing through which a 10-32 SHCS passes. The bushing is sized to just fit a reamed hole in the outer side plate and the end of the arm. Also visible are the aluminum spacers that are exactly the same width as the arms. You can also see some draw-file marks on the inside of the plate; since the spacers and arms are the same width, to allow the arms to move you must draw file just enough clearance on the side plates. This gives you movement but no discernible play. The screws that pass through the spacers simply thread into the aluminum mounting block that mounts to the cross slide of the lathe.

Disassembled:

IMG_5744.JPG

Arms: Here you can see that the holes for the half-moon pivoting inserts are round on one side of the arm and slotted on the other side to clear the threaded shaft. The half-moon is O-1 steel. The threaded shaft is 12L14, screw cut to 1/4-28 on top and 1/4-20 on the bottom and Loc-Tited into the lower half-moon insert. Note also that the half-moon cutout in the arms is about 1/8" forward of the center of the arms to provide a bit more leverage; you can crank down with just hand pressure to produce full depth knurls because of this. The plates constrain the arms laterally so this tool is much more rigid than other designs.

IMG_5746.JPG

How they fit: You can see that there is a reduced diameter below the hex head of the tensioning knob. That diameter just passes between the plates to allow sufficient travel when knurling smaller diameters. Note also that the front of the plates is rounded to allow clearance for larger diameter work pieces.

IMG_5747.JPG

Not too complicated. Dimensions are not critical in terms of size but you must work with care. By that, I mean all holes are reamed carefully, bushings and spacers are turned accurately, all parts are squared. None of this is difficult and it is a good opportunity to do work with precision.

The nice thing for me was that everything other than the knurls was already in my shop so I paid only for the knurls. This thing took the better part of a week to design and machine but it has served me well for over a decade. It has not mistracked or produced a single bad knurl so I'm satisfied with it.

Hope this clarifies things for you guys.

EDIT: I forgot to re-emphasize a really important lesson I learned. In order for any feature to be in the exact same location on two or more separate work pieces, you must clamp the pieces together and machine the feature in one operation. For example, if you want the holes at the ends of the arms in the exact same place you have to clamp the arms side by side and square to each other, then drill, then ream. OR, if you want the half-moon holes to be at the same point on the arms, you must clamp them together and drill between those arms. This is the only way to get things exactly the same, and I've already paid for the lesson.
 
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oskar

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Very nice work Mike, thanks
 

oskar

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Nicolas, if you go with that Hemmingway kit, please do a review if you can. I am curious to see how much actual machining is required to assemble this knurler. Hopefully, most of it is done for you because their price is pretty high for some small bits of steel. If it can be done without the use of a milling machine then I think this is a really good option.
Just had a reply from the Hemingway Kits (Kirk Burwell) and he confirmed that all kits provided needs machining. So yes his price is very high
 

DHarris

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Oskar, I had one of the Hemingway kits and the machining is not too extensive - mostly drilling holes and some general shaping on the knurl arms (helps to have a mill). BUT - I, like Mikey, have a Sherline lathe and mill and this knurler is, in my opinion, wayyyyy to big for my little Sherline! So, I made one like Mikey made and it works great like he said - my only change to his design was to make it for a QCTP. I'm not familiar with the Taig lathe - so don't know if it would be too big for that lathe, but check out the specs on the Hemingway site to be sure - - I'd send you the kit I bought, but i've already given it away to another guy.
 

oskar

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Glad to hear your experience Dave, thanks

I have decided against Hemingway Kits because as Mike said it’s too expensive when you include the shipping cost and I agree.

I considered making the Knurl tool for my QCTP but I think it will be more stable if I do it as Mike’s however my cross slide on my mini lathe is only 3.75” long so I have to change some dimensions. I made a model in MDF and I’m working now to find the optimal dimensions.

Nicolas
 

ddickey

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What was shipping to CAN?
$12 to the states.
 

oskar

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He said when I click to place the order I will see the total cost (excluding the VAT tax) and including the shipping cost and I have the option to cancel the order before I click ok but to get there I have to input my VISA numbers and I don't want that. I would say $12 sound right
 

ddickey

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Yeah. With the CAN dollar it would be a little pricey. With shipping and buying knurls it would be ~$100 I bet.
 
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