Lathe Leveling Problem

[epanzella]

Yes, that is the reason.

Thanks

 

[darkzero]

No problem.

I have always wondered & since you have one figured I would ask. Their site shows that the tailstock lever is removeable. But can it be securely left on or does it seem unsafe if you do?

And the tailstock ram, does it have a slot to utilize arbors with a tang?

 

[epanzella]

No problem.

I have always wondered & since you have one figured I would ask. Their site shows that the tailstock lever is removeable. But can it be securely left on or does it seem unsafe if you do?

And the tailstock ram, does it have a slot to utilize arbors with a tang?

The tailstock is MT3 with a slot. As far as the tailstock lever is concerned, I assume you're referring to the 1/2 inch square female socket for a torque wrench. It's hard to tell from the Grizzly website but the tailstock lever is actually on the back side and is not readily removable. The shaft the lever is connected to goes right thru the tailstock housing so you can put a torque wrench on it from the operator side. I'm no machinist by a long shot but this seems like a great machine for the money. My only complaint so far is the cover over the feed gear train. The manual says to oil the gear train ports every three hours of operation but the cover has to be removed. Not the end of the world but to do that you have to remove three thumbscrews and then lift the cover right off the machine. I'll have to see about rigging up some hinges or this cover is gonna spend it's life sitting on the floor.

 

[Richard King]

I only have a few minutes to type as I am late for work But I never recommend using those types of levers on a lathe as they flex to much. I would set it on steel plates on the floor. The wood block proves the point as the rubber ones don't work. I would also set the level ontop of the saddle and move the carriage to headstock end level the level using the leveling pads then crank the carriage to tailstock end and tweek the leveling pads. As you already know a small amount will be only needed on the bolts. The Chinese have not discovered how to properly level machinery yet as the level on the saddle method follows the path of the tool and is better then assuming the tops of the vee's are the same height. I have seen so many people get screwed by assuming that. You can also look up 2 collar method of aligning a lathe. We use a level to "align" a bed. Also what Tony said. The machine sat on that skid for months from China to Your basement floor and the casting is still moving most likely and will need to be rechecked from time to time. Rich

 

[epanzella]

I only have a few minutes to type as I am late for work But I never recommend using those types of levers on a lathe as they flex to much. I would set it on steel plates on the floor. The wood block proves the point as the rubber ones don't work. I would also set the level ontop of the saddle and move the carriage to headstock end level the level using the leveling pads then crank the carriage to tailstock end and tweek the leveling pads. As you already know a small amount will be only needed on the bolts. The Chinese have not discovered how to properly level machinery yet as the level on the saddle method follows the path of the tool and is better then assuming the tops of the vee's are the same height. I have seen so many people get screwed by assuming that. You can also look up 2 collar method of aligning a lathe. We use a level to "align" a bed. Also what Tony said. The machine sat on that skid for months from China to Your basement floor and the casting is still moving most likely and will need to be rechecked from time to time. Rich

Already did the 2 collar test. It's within .ooo2 on 6 inches. Please elaborate on "those types of levers" and "wood block proves the point". I don't follow (unless you were directing your post to someone else.)

 

[darkzero]

The tailstock is MT3 with a slot. As far as the tailstock lever is concerned, I assume you're referring to the 1/2 inch square female socket for a torque wrench. It's hard to tell from the Grizzly website but the tailstock lever is actually on the back side and is not readily removable. The shaft the lever is connected to goes right thru the tailstock housing so you can put a torque wrench on it from the operator side. I'm no machinist by a long shot but this seems like a great machine for the money. My only complaint so far is the cover over the feed gear train. The manual says to oil the gear train ports every three hours of operation but the cover has to be removed. Not the end of the world but to do that you have to remove three thumbscrews and then lift the cover right off the machine. I'll have to see about rigging up some hinges or this cover is gonna spend it's life sitting on the floor.

Thanks for that info. Totally unexpected & that is completely different from what they show on their site. But looking at you pic I do see what you are describing. It's much better designed that way. Nice TS. I wish I had a slot for the tang but it's not that big of a deal for me to make that upgrade.

 

[epanzella]

Thanks for that info. Totally unexpected & that is completely different from what they show on their site. But looking at you pic I do see what you are describing. It's much better designed that way. Nice TS. I wish I had a slot for the tang but it's not that big of a deal for me to make that upgrade.

This lathe must be evolving over time. There are things that look slightly different on my lathe than the website. There's also page to page differences in the pictures of the lathe in the owners manual. There's a bunch of reference plates on the lathe that are obvious but there's one that I don't understand and they don't mention it in the manual. Some pics in the book show the plate there and in some there is no plate. I'll have to take a pic maybe you can explain it to me.
Ed P

 

[darkzero]

This lathe must be evolving over time. There are things that look slightly different on my lathe than the website. There's also page to page differences in the pictures of the lathe in the owners manual. There's a bunch of reference plates on the lathe that are obvious but there's one that I don't understand and they don't mention it in the manual. Some pics in the book show the plate there and in some there is no plate. I'll have to take a pic maybe you can explain it to me.
Ed P

Ed, sure, I'd be happy to take a look. It's not uncommon to have variences between batches of lathes made in Asia. Even with my lathe & mill, there are quite a few differences from others who have the same machines. The changes aren't necessarily for better or worse. Just matters on what the parts suppliers have at the time they are built. Even the colors of paint can be different.

 

[Richard King]

Already did the 2 collar test. It's within .ooo2 on 6 inches. Please elaborate on "those types of levers" and "wood block proves the point". I don't follow (unless you were directing your post to someone else.)

.0002" in 6" Is decent if the TS end is big. If your levers are rubber bottomed, those at the type I dislike. They look like they are.
If you want it better then .0002" in 6" then you should tweek it in a little better. If you can't get it level on the tops of the V ways then forget that check.

 

[darkzero]

Please elaborate on "those types of levers" and "wood block proves the point". I don't follow (unless you were directing your post to someone else.)

If your levers are rubber bottomed, those at the type I dislike. They look like they are.

I'm confused too. What levers are you referring too? levers as in handles? Only thing I can thing of that makes sense by what you are describing are the leveling feet.

If yes, good quality feet with neoprene/rubber feet should be fine as long as the feet aren't over rated for the weight of the lathe. So if a lathe weighed 1000 lbs, four feet that are rated for 250-300 lbs should be good (well in a perfect world if the weight was evenly distributed amongst all four feet). Using four feet that are rated for a min of 1000lbs each on the same weight lathe would probably be a problem as they would never settle. The neoprene feet work but they need time to settle. Once leveled they should be checked again in a few days or a week. If the lathe was ever moved, they would need time to settle again. But of course you would know much better than I ever would.

I had a similar case using 8 neoprene feet but after swapping out four of them for four solid metal ones it made a huge improvement. I have most of the weight on the four solid mounts & just use the neoprene feet on the outside to add "grip". Another thing that can cause an issue is if the lathe is lifted high with leveling feet. The threaded studs can add to flexing. I went from 1/2" studs to 5/8"studs with minimal thread between the feet & base which also made a big improvement.