Lathe owners with DRO’s

(Humor)
Based upon some of the responses here:
I had no clue there were so many hobby machinists who were making bearing race assemblies for high performance jet engines.

Have I needed 1/10th of 1000th inch accuracy on occasions when I worked in a fabrication shop on bearing assemblies? Yes.
Small factors like carbide wear caused significant drift, so the I.D./O.D. needed to be measured by a micrometer before the final
pass when that kind of accuracy was required. Even dimensional growth from the part being HOT from machining caused
variances as well which had to be considered. The part would be flooded with coolant to get it to an "operating temperature range"
before the final pass.

Have I ever needed 5/100th of 1000th inch accuracy on any home hobby part produced? No. Not once, Not ever. I might chase that kind
of accuracy if a Tramming Jig is made for a mill. Then I will get to sweat the fact the collet is only good to 1/10th of 1000th of one inch.
 
addertooth said:
(Humor)
Based upon some of the responses here:
I had no clue there were so many hobby machinists who were making bearing race assemblies for high performance jet engines.

Have I needed 1/10th of 1000th inch accuracy on occasions when I worked in a fabrication shop on bearing assemblies? Yes.
Small factors like carbide wear caused significant drift, so the I.D./O.D. needed to be measured by a micrometer before the final
pass when that kind of accuracy was required. Even dimensional growth from the part being HOT from machining caused
variances as well which had to be considered. The part would be flooded with coolant to get it to an "operating temperature range"
before the final pass.

Have I ever needed 5/100th of 1000th inch accuracy on any home hobby part produced? No. Not once, Not ever. I might chase that kind
of accuracy if a Tramming Jig is made for a mill. Then I will get to sweat the fact the collet is only good to 1/10th of 1000th of one inch.
Click to expand...


I thought we all worked to +/- 1um. :grin:
 
Get what ever is cheaper, you guys are arguing over gnat's assholes
 
Hi All.
Just to let every one know so you know the out come of my OP. I decided on the DROPro’s El-400 readout and the 10” 1um mag cross slide encoder and the 40” 5 um Z axis encoder. I don’t know if anyone is interested about the install, if so I’ll pst some pix and info in the PM forum. I want to thank everyone for the help, it is appreciated.
Have fun safe Hollloween.
CH
 
To the OP, don't confuse resolution with accuracy. Resolution is the smallest quantity that can be resolved, but just adding digits doesn't mean the part being cut reflects that. Accuracy means how close to truth the display is. As others have pointed out, adding digits can give a false sense of accuracy where it doesn't exist. Past maybe 0.2 mil, there are other inaccuracies that render the extra resolution as pointless.
 
COMachinist said:
Hi All.
Just to let every one know so you know the out come of my OP. I decided on the DROPro’s El-400 readout and the 10” 1um mag cross slide encoder and the 40” 5 um Z axis encoder. I don’t know if anyone is interested about the install, if so I’ll pst some pix and info in the PM forum. I want to thank everyone for the help, it is appreciated.
Have fun safe Hollloween.
CH
Click to expand...

People here like How-To articles. A lot of people struggle with the placement of the sensors on lathes (and the running of the cable for the cross-feed). We like to see how you try to install it, so that you lose the minimum of travel distance. I realize you are installing on a lathe, but on a Mill, minimizing Y axis travel (due to the sensor taking up space on the column side of the table in most cases), is always a challenge. The cross-feed sensor often is installed on the tailstock side of the saddle, which can then limit how close to the tailstock you can move the carriage. I always like seeing how various people approach these challenges.
 
kb58 said:
To the OP, don't confuse resolution with accuracy. Resolution is the smallest quantity that can be resolved, but just adding digits doesn't mean the part being cut reflects that. Accuracy means how close to truth the display is. As others have pointed out, adding digits can give a false sense of accuracy where it doesn't exist. Past maybe 0.2 mil, there are other inaccuracies that render the extra resolution as pointless.
Click to expand...
Ok, Like I said I’m a retired Engineer, which means it will be close enough, to do the job. I rad this some where. If line up 10 beautiful women on one side of the room, and 5 engineers and 5 machinist on the other side. Told them they can move only 1/2 the distance at a time., all the machinist would leave. They would say you could never get there, the engineers would stay, you can get close enough to get the job done.
CH
 
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I am so glad I work with metric. For this fact for me .5um would be perfect. Just one problem. ........don't have a DRO for my lathe........yet.
 
COMachinist said:
Ok, Like I said I’m a retired Engineer, which means it will be close enough, to do the job. I rad this some where. If line up 10 beautiful women on one side of the room, and 5 engineers and 5 machinist on the other side. Told them they can move only 1/2 the distance at a time., all the machinist would leave. They would say you could never get there, the engineers would stay, you can get close enough to get the job done.
CH
Click to expand...
Since you're an engineer, you know that the above example is silly. Engineers repulse women, so the distance would never change.
 
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