Lathe taper attachment

Thank you Mark, you're a real inspiration to me and others on here. It really wouldn't take much to make the center tilt , shoot even add bearings so it can spin. Don't know if they still sell leadloy center lube. But any hi pressure grease should do. Oh ill be making one yes sir.....
 
I'm sifting through prior threads pertaining to tailstock devices that offset work centers for the purpose of taper turning.

Hopefully Mark & others - did you observe any rotational drift of the attachment within the tailstock MT bore during cutting? I'm kind of worried about the consequences of that occurring. Not for any particular reason, this swill be my first go at it. In the case of an 'on center' dead center, even if it spins, the work stays in the same orientation. But an offset center is acting at a radius to the MT socket. the more taper, the more torque. So if it loosens, could that not lead to a bad thing if the center tucks under?
 
As long as you keep a load pushing the taper into the tailstock it is not going to slip. Think about how much torque it takes to run a 3/4 inch drill into steel.
 
petertha said:
I'm sifting through prior threads pertaining to tailstock devices that offset work centers for the purpose of taper turning.

Hopefully Mark & others - did you observe any rotational drift of the attachment within the tailstock MT bore during cutting? I'm kind of worried about the consequences of that occurring. Not for any particular reason, this swill be my first go at it. In the case of an 'on center' dead center, even if it spins, the work stays in the same orientation. But an offset center is acting at a radius to the MT socket. the more taper, the more torque. So if it loosens, could that not lead to a bad thing if the center tucks under?
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As ASM109 said, plus use a ball rather than a center. make a tool that you can put in a drill chuck or create an morse taper to fit your tailstock. use a ball bearing ball, or chromed ball either free or soldered to a tool. The tool should be turned to allow the ball to sit into the end captively. Now there is no danger of it rotational drift. When I saw this the first time I thought much better than fighting between centers. It works. If you are talking about a boring head rotating in the tail stock, it can, just make sure you are aware of it. You can modify your tailstock quill to put some set screws in, especially if your boring head has a tang.
 
petertha said:
Thanks guys. The MT socket drilling analogy makes sense. Although for some reason I thought the vast majority were tanged & that's what responsible for resisting torque
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The tangs are not intended for resisting rotation, and indeed they are easily twisted right off, which does not help things much. The tangs are intended for assisting in breaking the tapers with a wedge for removal.
 
Bob Korves said:
The tangs are not intended for resisting rotation, and indeed they are easily twisted right off, which does not help things much. The tangs are intended for assisting in breaking the tapers with a wedge for removal.
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And when you have a design that needs a wedge to brake the taper's hold its because it holds really well!
 
Its one of the mysteries of my tailstock I'm just going to have to take apart or shine a flashlight down one day, because the manual doesn't really show that detail. With a non tang arbor, if I retract the barrel, some internal stop or pin contacts the end of the arbor & it pops loose. The exact same thing happens on a tang arbor (maybe at a different retraction distance?). But I just assumed the tang purpose was it engaged in a fixed slot type socket purely to resist potentially loosening torque.

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