Learning to dial in a 4-jaw

Mini Cooper S said:
Someone may have mentioned this, but I didn't see it so here goes.
Right after I bought my first lathe, I turned some concentric grooves in the face of the 4 jaw chuck. I put them about every 3/8 inch but you can space them as you see fit. You can use a corner or edge of the jaws and the lines to get the work piece very close to true, saves a lot of guess work.


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I'm somewhat embarassed to say that my chuck has lines on it. Duffus here didn't think about measuring the stock and using the lines a guide. :oops2:
 
Now you have seen that then many other ideas..

Different angles and other things.

Remember to move 1/2 way to target.

Often you forget which way to go, touch the DI probe and see which way it moves so you know which way to turn screws.

You need to loosen before tighten and after time you will get a feel for how much to turn for 0.010...

When you get close you reverse and tighten first as it just needs a touch.

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I am considering making 2 short keys for dialing in the 4 jaw. Any recommendations on the length of the key or the handles? Anyone got an example? What kind of steel would you use? Does it need to be hardened?
I know this was covered somewhere but the forum does not allow one to search for the word "key"! I guess it is too short a word!
Robert
 
They don't need to be long and in fact shorter is probably better as you will have to reach both of them at the same time. You don't want it hardened, better to have the key damaged from the screw than the screw damaged by the key. I used a scrap piece of mild steel but anything would likely serve as long as you don't do any hardening.
 
rwm said:
I am considering making 2 short keys for dialing in the 4 jaw. Any recommendations on the length of the key or the handles? Anyone got an example? What kind of steel would you use? Does it need to be hardened?
I know this was covered somewhere but the forum does not allow one to search for the word "key"! I guess it is too short a word!
Robert
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Check for the size square stock that fits your chuck (mine is 3/8") and pick it up at Home Depot. Weld into a T. Make them small enough so that you can spin them without hitting your headstock.
 
rwm said:
I am considering making 2 short keys for dialing in the 4 jaw. Any recommendations on the length of the key or the handles? Anyone got an example? What kind of steel would you use? Does it need to be hardened?
I know this was covered somewhere but the forum does not allow one to search for the word "key"! I guess it is too short a word!
Robert
Click to expand...

You read my mind!


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Got some 303 SS and collet blocks? Simple to make, doesn't rust and easy to machine. I suggest making at least one shorter for use on the far side of the chuck; just enough for your knuckles to clear. Make the part that goes into the chuck a close fit and chamfer the edges and it will work for a very long time.
 
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