Leveling a benchtop lathe 10x30

I need to sturdy up the bench, at the same time I may be able to level the top more.

I really like the idea of a leveling plate with adjustable points!! I saw the link to the custom set up, great!! Did you have a close up of it installed on your lathe?

Thanks for all the info, I am learning a lot here.
 
RJSakowski , When you say your G0602 has a headstock adjustment, are you talking about loosening the 4 screws and moving the headstock manually? I have the G0752 which is the same except for vfd right.... and that is the only way I know of adjusting it. Thanks
Just for the moment this is concentrating on leveling the bed of the lathe as this is the most important step. By leveling we mean that the ways are not twisted. You could mount the lathe sideways on a wall if you wanted ,(actually not a bad idea!), but the ways need to be level in the same plane.
DO NOT start tu-tuing with headstock alignment until this is done AND you understand what you are doing.
 
I need to sturdy up the bench, at the same time I may be able to level the top more.

I really like the idea of a leveling plate with adjustable points!! I saw the link to the custom set up, great!! Did you have a close up of it installed on your lathe?

Thanks for all the info, I am learning a lot here.


A solid bench to mount it to is critical. It does no good to align things to tenths if the whole platform moves. :)

Did you find what you needed in my thread or is there something you would like a better photo of?


For measuring tools, what I've found is that good deals can be tricky to get with people bidding at the last second on ebay, etc.. As someone getting started you don't want to play games, you want to get started. By all means, if you can get a high quality instrument for similar cost, do so. I'm not suggesting the import gear should be the end game. It's just the beginning. But it's reasonably priced, you can buy it RIGHT NOW with no games, and it's good enough to start. And it's good enough to keep using after you get better gear, for less critical measuring or dangerous situations where you think you might drop it. Dropping a $100 DTI sucks, dropping a $30 DTI is mildly annoying. When I'm roughing in a part on the lathe, I use the HF calipers. When I'm setting up a finish pass I want accurate to 0.0005", I break out the Starrett Micrometer. Sure, you can use the nice gear for rough measuring, but why?

Full disclosure, no, I'm not accurate to tenths yet. I'm trying to get there though. :)
 
I saw the pictures, I could not see how it was with lathe on it. A close up pic of the bracket in final with the lathe would be great.

Very happy with all the info you all are giving me!!

I have added a few things you all suggested, like marking fluid and machinist rulers. I will reconsider the kit by fowler and compare to individual pcs to see if I can get the price down a bit and the tools more specific to my needs.

Great group here, so Happy I found you all.
 
Here's one with the lathe installed on the bench.

20180719_185230.jpg

The outer edges are the adjustment bolts and locking nuts. Next are some screws holding the bracket to the top of the bench. The center is the hold down bolt for the lathe foot. The plate is just mild steel flat bar from home depot. 3/16" or 1/4" thick, 1" wide I believe. The center and outer holes in the bar are threaded. 3/8-24 for the adjustment bolts, 1/2-13 for the hold down. Get good taps, I did those with the harbor freight kit because I didn't know better. After using real taps I won't use the HF crap. My favorite are the spiral flute YG-1 taps right now.
 
NortonDommi ... I'm not the one to start this thread, since he mentoned about the headstock and I have done it the way I mentioned I was curious to what he was describing. Sorry didn't mean to try to hijack this thread. Just curious if there was something I didn't know.
 
NortonDommi ... I'm not the one to start this thread, since he mentoned about the headstock and I have done it the way I mentioned I was curious to what he was describing. Sorry didn't mean to try to hijack this thread. Just curious if there was something I didn't know.
WarrenP, sorry if I came across a little terse, A question was asked about mounting and truing a lathe and the first step is leveling the bed. I was a bit worried that jumping to aligning the headstock could confuse things especially as that is not something often needed. I know that when I'm faced with a new thing or process it's generally best to start at point A and work from there step by step and it's very easy to go off on a tangent or get sidetracked.
 
NotonDommi, No Problem I just felt a little funny seeming to take over the thread with my question. I understand what you mean and your right.. go one step at a time.

I guess RJSawkowski isnt following the thread anymore, I was hoping for an answer.. Everyone have a good day.
 
First off, let me welcome you, along with all the others, to the board. And to the rat race, such as it is. I don't have a lot to add, just some insights that have accumulated over the years.

As a hobbyest, you have the luxury of time. In that, if it ain't right, do it over. There are many here that do this for a living and must produce. If they don't turn out product, within specs, they don't eat. Many of the measuring tools they have are for saving time. A little here, a little there, it adds up over the course of a full day. What you need is a set of calipers and a feeler guage. What ever else you want is just that, want. A six inch dial caliper(or digital, though I don't like them), a 0-1" micrometer(also called a micrometer caliper) and a dial indicator and stand.

There are many ways to true a lathe. But some of them take 3 or 4 days while others take 3 or 4 hours and yet others take 10 minutes. Truing the lathe is a serious, albeit fairly easy, business. Roughing it in with a good mason's level and a plumb bob as shown in the video above will do for 95% of hobbyests. It's those other 5% that must have it accurate to three decimal places. And then the pros... I, however, am nowhere as good as they. But as a retiree in my own field, don't really care. I have enough skills to build what I want and anything more would be a waste.

Let me start off by saying that I was looking at something on eBay the other day and thought of the one I have had forever, or almost forever. One I stole off a ship in 1969. Didn't really steal it, it was being used and got thrown in with my stuff when I got transferred. At age 20, I wasn't as careful as later.

The point being that I didn't have a lathe of my own until nearly 30 years later. But, when it came up, I already had that item. I have traveled around the world a few times. Doing electrical and computer work. I gathered, as needed, the tools for each craft, as I needed, to accomplish a particular job. Some of those tools were of good precision, some only marginally so. But for machinist's work, might as well have been toys. And a few, specific to another craft, only buildable by a Master Tool Maker. We get hung up on the "standards" of a profession, when all we need is enough for what we do.

I use as an example a framing carpenter, who considers a cut within 1/16" sufficient. I've worked with a few who considered 1/8" to be suitable. A cabinet maker, however, considers 1/64" to be a target to work toward. The machinist, on the other hand, must work every day to one thousandth. Or better... Look at the numbers involved here: 1/8=0.125, 1/16=0.062~, 1/64=0.015~, machinist 0.001 or 0.0001. If you needed a brass hammer turned from a chunk of (scrap) brass, would 2" +/-1/8" be close enough? Use what you need for the job at hand. If a 6" caliper (dial or digital) will yeild sufficient accuracy, why bother with a micrometer? Get what you need when you need it. Until then, dream but don't necessarily buy. For that brass hammer, I would measure with a Mk.1 eyeball. To put it another way, TLAR, That Looks About Right. Use what you need, not what "everybody" is telling you.

Bill Hudson​
 
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