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- Dec 18, 2019
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- 6,538
What's the bore and key way? I just did an 8mm thick 127T M1 gear with a 12mm bore in FreeCAD. Took about 2-1/2 minutes, only because I messed up the order of operations. Very easy, once you know the basics of FreeCAD. Likely the same with other CAD packages.@MaverickNH
I was thinking about your desire to have a slower feed rate and the suggestion that you get a 127T gear. You could get two of these 3D printed, then assuming that they will fit, replace the 80/20/80/20 arrangement with 127/20/127/20 and I think this will get you to a TPI value of
645.16 or inverting this a feed rate of 0.00155 inch/turn. The nice thing about this would be that just using one of the 127 gears could also be used at the center position to improve your metric threads.
Just a passing thought. I have a "Prusa i3_MK3S" 3D printer. If you can make a 3D printer CAD STL file for it I would print them for you. I would like to see how well this would work anyway. Prusa even supplies a slicer software to convert from the CAD STL file to the Gcode file. https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/
I even think that FreeCAD software will generate 3D gears pretty much automatically from the gear tooth size and number of teeth or diameter info.
Dave
![127TM1gear.jpg 127TM1gear.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/424/424386-38cba119e19ddea13d836aec2f56d1b7.jpg)
Key way is 3mm, bore is 12mm, 8mm thick. New pic with key way.
![127TM1gear3mmkey.jpg 127TM1gear3mmkey.jpg](https://www.hobby-machinist.com/data/attachments/424/424389-b64b80f8f3174868aadbdd5ef5aaea4d.jpg)
What clearance should I give? I made the key 3.1mm wide and the bore 12.1mm since inside dimensions tend to shrink when printing. Is that ok?
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