Machining Cast Iron Dumb Bells

[Cadillac]

I actually had a write up on machining tractor suitcase weights. The ones I harvested were ford weights. About 4” thick 10” square.60-70 vintage. When cutting some spots cut okay then some spots were very hard. Felt like I dulled every blade in the shop to get it cut out. Using a carbide endmill it cut but felt a lot of resistance. Not what I’d expect from cast. After asking for some advice on the forum I threw the chunk in my forge while doing some casting and got it to a red hot temp. Then I let it cool overnight in the forge. I have yet to machine the part again but my hopes are it will do better. I have a newer JD plate 1 1/4 thick and a 2’ square. Says made in USA on it so I’m hoping it’s good.

 

[NortonDommi]

Just a note on axles, we have a lot of Japanese cars here and many front wheel drive. The axles on these are induction surface hardened 4130 and will destroy tips. They only way to use them is to have a very robust tip and a heavy cut to 'skin' them. The hard layer,(about 1 mm),is harder than Diamond from my experience. I now usually cut them and use for punches and pins if the right size and grind to size. Enclosed axles from rear wheel drive or a 4 x 4 with enclosed axles are not a problem. Most of these seem to be 1140 or 1180.

 

[jdedmon91]

I actually had a write up on machining tractor suitcase weights. The ones I harvested were ford weights. About 4” thick 10” square.60-70 vintage. When cutting some spots cut okay then some spots were very hard. Felt like I dulled every blade in the shop to get it cut out. Using a carbide endmill it cut but felt a lot of resistance. Not what I’d expect from cast. After asking for some advice on the forum I threw the chunk in my forge while doing some casting and got it to a red hot temp. Then I let it cool overnight in the forge. I have yet to machine the part again but my hopes are it will do better. I have a newer JD plate 1 1/4 thick and a 2’ square. Says made in USA on it so I’m hoping it’s good.
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Have you tried to machine it after this process


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[Cadillac]

Not yet I'm in the middle of a project on the Bridgeport. The piece of cast is to make a solid tool post mount for my 14x40. Not really needed but a nice project. After initial cutting I threw it on the mill and tried milling with a 3/4 rougher endmill and it felt resistive so I took recommendation from the forum to try annealing. I should be on it by next week if Christmas isn't to hectic.

 

[ericc]

A drain cover shattered in my neighborhood and scattered pieces of cast iron all over the street. I harvested a few and found out that stuff is beautiful. Cuts like "butta" and leaves a fine dusty chip. Very uniform, smooth and predictable. Solders and brazes just fine. I have one cast iron dumbbell which has similar good properties. Good luck, I guess.

 

[jdedmon91]

A drain cover shattered in my neighborhood and scattered pieces of cast iron all over the street. I harvested a few and found out that stuff is beautiful. Cuts like "butta" and leaves a fine dusty chip. Very uniform, smooth and predictable. Solders and brazes just fine. I have one cast iron dumbbell which has similar good properties. Good luck, I guess.

Question do you think the quality of the bar bells makes a difference? Like a higher end set that is used in Gyms or competition? I would think those uses would have to use more consistent material to make the weights consistent that those uses demand.

A home set that is close isn’t a big deal. Neither a tractor weight, but when it’s important to know the weights are consistent for competition




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[Bob Korves]

Question do you think the quality of the bar bells makes a difference?

Let me say it again. You are buying barbells, not metal spec'd for fine machining. You might get lucky and get metal that is high grade machine quality iron, but what is the chance of that? The only requirements of barbells is that they cast to size and do not explode when dropped. Mystery metal is always a mystery. If it was me, I would be looking for cast iron scrap that has been finely machined, then you know it will machine well. Making the weights of barbells match is not a big deal

 

[jdedmon91]

Let me say it again. You are buying barbells, not metal spec'd for fine machining. You might get lucky and get metal that is high grade machine quality iron, but what is the chance of that? The only requirements of barbells is that they cast to size and do not explode when dropped. Mystery metal is always a mystery. If it was me, I would be looking for cast iron scrap that has been finely machined, then you know it will machine well. Making the weights of barbells match is not a big deal

I’m not familiar with cast iron. That was my question, thanks for the answer. Some materials the content makes small differences, most barbells one would buy are yard sale items, kinda like treadmills


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[ericc]

I agree. I've wasted time and bombed out good cutters trying to make stuff out of mystery metal. The lure is still there. Now, I spark and file test everything. I have a huge set of comparative coupons, so most standard steels can be identified. This is also useful around estate steels, since a clean mystery bar can be A-2 which might lead to an accident (I've seen them) if forged as mild steel.