- Joined
- Aug 13, 2023
- Messages
- 16
I thought a tie was required? Guess it's time for a new profile pic!And take off that tie before you operate any machinery!
I thought a tie was required? Guess it's time for a new profile pic!And take off that tie before you operate any machinery!
Well, alrighty then. Sounds like a good challenge. Thanks, RBW...LOL!!!
Jim, if you do this properly you could work the mandrel into a nice slitting saw arbor so its not a one time use part.
Im always looking to find a secondary use for something that needs to be made as a one off tool.
What better reason to make a tool purchase than a current project. Good luck.Thanks, Randy! I have a boring head on my short list.
Nice knurler mod!
The power / argon cable that came with my machine is only 10 feet long. Is there an adapter I can get to connect a second cable to make it 20 feet? If so, where can I find on, and what is it called? Thanks, JR49
For any threading job that requires the cutting tool be in close proximity to the chuck, I use the method of threading away from the chuck. Takes all of the stress out of the job.
Ted
Welcome aboard Robert
The crank arm as promised.
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The two previous pictures tell the whole story even with a 1/2" deep relief slot there is no way a 3" stroke into a 0.875 hole is going to work. There just isn't enough room if I want to stay within my overall length of 15".
I could shorten the stroke but that means the compression ratio will go way down and I don't want that. I think what I will do is make
the cylinder larger with a 1" piston if I can make room in the 3/4" tee. This won't guarantee that there won't be any interference problems but they will be much less.
Thanks for looking
Ray
It's a good idea to grind the cutting edges of the drill to reduce the rake similar to what's done for brass drilling
Peck drilling is important- clear the chips often
Yes, after a lot of turning with the back gear engaged. Thinking it has gauled the shaft a bit. I can turn it in reverse with a large bar but very stiff.
If you're just beginning I think you'd get a lot more return for your money spending it on other things. I don't even have one of those little magnetic digital angle things and I've got by just fine without a precision level. Not saying I wouldn't buy one if I found one cheap you know, I'm not crazy!
You could make an arbor to hold the bored disc in your spindle and use a single-point tool in the vise to true the OD.
Edit: probably more properly called a mandrel, as it holds the work rather than the cutter.
Same way, stick it in a holder in the quill and cut it true. Use tap or die to fix the part to the mandrel.Please delete my reply above don’t even know how that got there. jwmelvin, or anyone, How would he make an arbor/mandrel without a lathe?
Mount a piece of round in a collet. Using the vice to hold a piece of HSS, turn the rod to slightly oversized, .002+. Take a file and taper the end of the about to become arbor. Remove the new arbor and drive the taper into the washer hole. Put arbor back into collet & turn OD. One thing to check is the actual diameter of the hole. If it was drilled it may be larger than the drill size.How would he make an arbor/mandrel without a lathe?
I'm sensing the same, Larry....down the rabbit hole I go....My first machine tool was a Jet knee mill I traded for. It didn't take long until it was obvious a lathe was the 2nd part of a set.
And then the rabbit hole got out of control.