Made a replacement Logan 200 cross feed nut

4gsr said:
All man Paul. You take all the fun out of using a tap for cutting 7/16-16 Acme LH nut thread. I single pointed the thread in the nut I have on my 9"SBL. Of course, I was much younger and sharper at cutting the thread then than I am now. Still have the boring bar and chunk of tool steel I sharpen to cut the thread, too.
BTW- Nice job! What class of fit is the tap you used?
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2g but I will be of course single pointing the 1-1/4" 5tpi for the Bridgeport I didn't feed like I could grind a tool to do this nut. Thanks I'm getting better as I go :)
Paul
 
Yeah, that class 2G tap is design to give you a sloppy fit. But since you are going to make a screw, you can fit the nut to the screw thread and get to a snug close fit.
 
4gsr said:
Yeah, that class 2G tap is design to give you a sloppy fit. But since you are going to make a screw, you can fit the nut to the screw thread and get to a snug close fit.
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I will do that for sure. I'll keep testing as I cut to get it tight. Are the originals on machines cut to 3g fit?
 
The originals were more or less cut to a 3C fit, not 3G. Now, I've really confused you. Sorry.
 
wileyone123 said:
Nice job on the nut....just purchased a tap to make 1 for mine as well....as the OE nut is cast iron on mine and fairly worn.

Just wondering, Pros/Cons for making a nut out of Brass VS Bronze?
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I'm not a pro at metallurgy (there are several around here) A couple of things I do know bronze is stronger than brass and more resistant to corrosion. Although bronze is quite a bit more expensive than brass. Bronze will probably last longer. But back to hobby usage either might last longer than us. Oh one more thing at some point I had read that brass is subject to "stick slip" during use and can make it difficult during fine adjustments. Anyhow, the main reason I chose bronze was because of it being a stronger material. Someone else will jump in here and correct anything I messed up I hope. :)

Paul
 
There are many types of brass and many types of bronze, all with different characteristics. They cannot really be compared generically.
 
expressline99 said:
I didn't make a replacement. But it would be easy after doing this one. The rounding as you probably know is only for clearance in the casting. But I figured someone would see it. :) :) I've already got a rough milled piece of bronze for making the compound feed nut. So I may do that next before making the screw. I do have one issue on making the screw....gotta get a couple of t-slot mill cutters for the woodruff keys. I have no experience with those so brands/types suggestions are welcome.

Sorry about your back surgery. My wife had her back surgery about 3 months ago on L5-S1 She is still doing physical therapy and that might go on for a year. But she is moving around just fine. Seems to have helped quite a bit.

Thanks for the support. I really love doing this stuff.

Paul
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Woodruff cutters are a really great keyway system , having the right cutter isn't hard to cope with or find.. Once you know the width and depth it's just center it and cut to depth . There easy to center to , a piece of paper held till it pulls it or cuts is one side , then the other side ,, usually top n bottom on Bridgeport style mill. Horizontal is sides. After you know the center just half the width and the cutter half of width figured in. Just lock up the tables and slow feed with cutting oil.
 
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