Making My Shop More Secure

[TomS]

As my collection of machine tools and other toys continues to grow I thought it was time to make my shop a bit more secure. Using material I had on hand I built a lockable security bar for the two personnel doors. Here are a few pictures that show what I did.

My shop is a pole barn so I was able to anchor the cross bar with 1/4" x 6" long lag bolts into the 6" x 6" vertical poles. The doors and frame are steel.


The cross bar is 3/4" x 1-1/2" channel. I welded a 5/8" spacer on the bottom of the cross bar at each anchor point to center the cross bar vertically in the anchor. This essentially blocks access to the lag bolts from the front.


I used 2" x 3" x .120" wall tubing for the anchor points. The four visible holes are for access to the lag bolts with a socket. I welded a cap on the left side to keep the cross bar from sliding further to the left. If you look close you can see a piece of flat bar on the right end of the anchor that fills the gap between the cross bar and rectangular tube. There is no way to access the lag bolts except by removing the cross bar.


I bought this Master padlock at Lowe's. You will notice there's no room to use a bolt cutter. Take the lock off and slide the cross bar to the right to unlock and open the door.


The right side anchor has a piece welded in each end to take up the space between the cross bar and anchor. Again, the cross bar and the welded in pieces on each end block access to the lag bolts when the cross bar is in place.


The cross bar height is such that it covers the door lock mechanism. There's no way to use a lock pick. If someone wants to break in they will have to bring a torch or a sawsall.


I am now sleeping better at night.


Tom S

 

[drs23]

Well planned and executed. Good job! You should sleep better now indeed.

 

[JimDawson]

Very nice design. Looks like you put a lot of thought into thwarting most possible methods of defeating the lock bar.

The down side is that your design suffers from the same weakness that my system does. Wrap a chain around the center of the bar and drive off. This of course will make a bunch of noise. The sad truth is it's pretty hard to defeat a determined crook if they have enough time.

Here is what I did:



2x2x .187 wall tubing with 9/16 solid cross bars. 2x2x.250 angle iron frame bolted into the frame. With the door shut you can't get to any of the screws. The dead bolt striker plate is made from D-2 and hardened to about RC60 and has about 0.010 clearance between the plate and the door. You can't get a hacksaw in there. The inside of the deadbolt is not accessible without a grinder, it has a cap welded over it. The outside of the deadbolt is protected with a stainless collar made from .250 wall round tube. The down side is that the door is bolted into the 2x6 framing, so a chain and a vehicle will simply yank the door frame out of the wall. I usually keep my truck or something parked outside that door so it makes it a bit more difficult to get to.

However, by the time they get that rigged, they will have already tripped the motion detectors, and I will have turned the dogs loose, while I'm grabbing my friend, Mr. Mossberg. There is pretty much someone onsite 24/7 also.

The other concern is the rollup door, one could just drive right through it, so I normally leave my forklift backed up to the door. That 4500LB solid iron counter weight would be a bit of a surprise.

 

[TomS]

Very nice design. Looks like you put a lot of thought into thwarting most possible methods of defeating the lock bar.

The down side is that your design suffers from the same weakness that my system does. Wrap a chain around the center of the bar and drive off. This of course will make a bunch of noise. The sad truth is it's pretty hard to defeat a determined crook if they have enough time.

Here is what I did:

View attachment 82715

2x2x .187 wall tubing with 9/16 solid cross bars. 2x2x.250 angle iron frame bolted into the frame. With the door shut you can't get to any of the screws. The dead bolt striker plate is made from D-2 and hardened to about RC60 and has about 0.010 clearance between the plate and the door. You can't get a hacksaw in there. The inside of the deadbolt is not accessible without a grinder, it has a cap welded over it. The outside of the deadbolt is protected with a stainless collar made from .250 wall round tube. The down side is that the door is bolted into the 2x6 framing, so a chain and a vehicle will simply yank the door frame out of the wall. I usually keep my truck or something parked outside that door so it makes it a bit more difficult to get to.

However, by the time they get that rigged, they will have already tripped the motion detectors, and I will have turned the dogs loose, while I'm grabbing my friend, Mr. Mossberg. There is pretty much someone onsite 24/7 also.

The other concern is the rollup door, one could just drive right through it, so I normally leave my forklift backed up to the door. That 4500LB solid iron counter weight would be a bit of a surprise.

I like what you did. Even though we strive to make our shops and home burglar proof the best we can achieve is burglar resistant. If we make it difficult hopefully they will leave.

Tom S

 

[Rbeckett]

Great workmanship and definitely a sleep improver too. I know if I had the or something similar I would sleep better. I have to feed my burglar system, but she is 100% reliable and will deter even a determine crook with her big dog bark and hackles up!!!! Have a good night and sleep tight!!!!


Bob

 

[TomS]

Great workmanship and definitely a sleep improver too. I know if I had the or something similar I would sleep better. I have to feed my burglar system, but she is 100% reliable and will deter even a determine crook with her big dog bark and hackles up!!!! Have a good night and sleep tight!!!!


Bob

Thanks Bob. I originally thought that motion control lights would be enough to deter burglars and give me a sense of security. Unfortunately the deer were setting off the lights several times a night. So it was back to the drawing board to come up with another plan.

Tom S

 

[chips&more]

I’m not so sure, sorry to be a pot stirrer. But, when you added that bar across the door and right in front of the lock you gave the burglar a place to lever his pry bar against so he can force open the door right at the lock.

 

[John Hasler]

I’m not so sure, sorry to be a pot stirrer. But, when you added that bar across the door and right in front of the lock you gave the burglar a place to lever his pry bar against so he can force open the door right at the lock.

Won't be a problem if the door opens outward.

 

[chips&more]

Won't be a problem if the door opens outward.

I guess you didn't look at the pic's

 

[pineyfolks]

Set up your motion sensors but instead of having lights turn on have them set off a recording of a big dog. And set a water bowl and a dog chain outside the shop.