Making some screw less vise hold downs

Better than nothing but I would probably go about 1/16". The bigger the better because it is adding strength to the part and distributing the stress to a larger area. Did you catch the editing that I did to my other post?
Richard
Also, make the clamp longer, the short distance from the end to the hole will cause all the clamping pressure to it clamp the table with the vise acting as a step block.
I have a real mill hold down in front of me. It's about 2.5" long, 1" wide and 0.5" thick (one of my smallest ones). I need to have the far end of the hold down on a pedestal, or one of those stepped triangle spacers. Was hoping for something more compact than that. If that's not possible, might as well get a couple more shorties (2.5") and use them instead. Can always use more general purpose hold downs. Only place I have been able to find these short ones for 3/8 studs is at McMaster. They are $9.35 each. Of course I could always use longer ones as well.

So you solved my problem. I'm still going to see if I can come up with something more compact and single piece. Not sure that I can with the stock I have. A wag on this I need 1" x 1" stock. Mill an "L" with radius corners, drill holes, maybe radius the part that contacts the table. Much easier design. Ordered the 1x1 off eBay.

In the mean time, I'll just use the vise...
 
The LMS clamps are $6.73 ea.
Of course they are. Plus shipping. Not actually the point for me.

The point is for me to get used to thinking mechanically (and creatively) to design something. There's lots of items out there to buy, not all of which are designed or made well. Sometimes you can buy your way out of a problem. Other times, you really do have to make something custom. I'm practicing for that time when that special something isn't purchasable. Some might say it's wasting my time, others might say I'm just sharpening my saw.

The stock can be used for all kinds of stuff. This thread made me realize that there's no need to make these clamps at all, since I already own good enough hold down clamps. Or I could make some compact hold downs, if I come up with an adequate design. The suggestions received in this thread were very helpful. The actual metal cost for the part might be $2.50. Of course, a few bits of tooling need to be sourced, because my shop is sparsely equipped, but I get to reuse the tooling for making other stuff.

If I buy the clamps, I only have clamps. If I make the clamps, I get some additional useful tooling, and learn how to be a better machinist. For me, the latter choice (make) is better for me. It fits my goals. Your choice may be different.
 
Of course they are. Plus shipping. Not actually the point for me.

The point is for me to get used to thinking mechanically (and creatively) to design something. ...........
...........
If I buy the clamps, I only have clamps. If I make the clamps, I get some additional useful tooling, and learn how to be a better machinist. For me, the latter choice (make) is better for me. It fits my goals. Your choice may be different.
Wobbly, I like the way you think, hobby machinist that I am. Why buy something for $7 when you can make it for $20, right? ;)

I used clamps from a standard clamp set to hold my screwless vise for a long time and then decided I wanted something more compact. Like you, I got my inspiration from the LMS clamp drawing. This is what I wound up making to fit my vise. The dimension not shown is width of 1". Material is 1018. I used a corner rounding end mill to form the pivot. I didn't want a sharp corner bearing down on the table. Could have done the same with a file, but hey, a man has to have more tools, right?

Tom

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Well, duh, now I know that one can't use an ordinary hold down for the vise AND use 6" parallels. The hold down nuts are higher than the bottom of the vise.
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Looked into using a SHCS instead, but the head is still too high. Sure I could machine the head thinner, or even buy a low profile head SHCS, but the hold downs are relatively tall and wide. They also interfere with my saw arbor (due to the arbors ridiculous length below the blade). Back to the drawing board... Think I can make the top surface of the hold down lower by nearly a 1/4" and counter-bore a screw through it.
 
Wobbly, I like the way you think, hobby machinist that I am. Why buy something for $7 when you can make it for $20, right? ;)

I used clamps from a standard clamp set to hold my screwless vise for a long time and then decided I wanted something more compact. Like you, I got my inspiration from the LMS clamp drawing. This is what I wound up making to fit my vise. The dimension not shown is width of 1". Material is 1018.

Tom

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That's pretty close to what I was sketching! I thought I would counter-bore the screw for lower profile.

I'm a little confused about the sketch. What is the height from the table to the bottom of the slot? Mine is 0.475" To make something similar to your idea, I would have to increase the height of the 0.294" = X section to match my vise? Otherwise the surface won't tilt down towards the vise?
 
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My screwless vise has a groove on each side of the base, instead of a series of holes like the one shown on the LMS web page. So I basically replicated the LMS design but instead of the rod that side of the hold down has a machined-in-lip to fit in the slot. I don't recall if I changed the height of the step on the other side. Edit: very much like the one Tom showed in message #15 above.

One disadvantage of the LMS design is that the counterbored screws can accumulate swarf that's somewhat difficult to remove. If I ever have a need to replace them, I'd simplify the design by eliminating the counter bore and go with hex head bolts and washers.

The hold downs were the first real project on my mill.
 
My screwless vise has a groove on each side of the base, instead of a series of holes like the one shown on the LMS web page. So I basically replicated the LMS design but instead of the rod that side of the hold down has a machined-in-lip to fit in the slot. I don't recall if I changed the height of the step on the other side.

One disadvantage of the LMS design is that the counterbored screws can accumulate swarf that's somewhat difficult to remove. If I ever have a need to replace them, I'd simplify the design by eliminating the counter bore and go with hex head bolts and washers.

The hold downs were the first real project on my mill.
Our vises have a groove, also.
 
That's pretty close to what I was sketching! I thought I would counter-bore the screw for lower profile.
You can barely see on my sketch where I erased a counterbore for a SHCS. I decided against it for the same reason that homebrewed pointed out, a swarf trap, and I didn’t need the clearance.

That's pretty close to what I was sketching! I thought I would counter-bore the screw for lower profile.

I'm a little confused about the sketch. What is the height from the table to the bottom of the slot?
The bottom of the slot on my vise is 10mm from the bottom of the vise. Does your vise not have slots on each side or are they just that elevated? Another factor may be vise size. Mine is a 90mm Tormach vise.

Tom
 
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