Making tee bolts, need advice.

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How do you tap the tee bolt so the stud can't go all the way thru the hole?
My set has the tee bolts with what seems to be incomplete thread al the way thru the hole.
Thanks very much to all of you who have been so grascious with all your knowledge.

Jon
 
The tee nuts that I have appear to have been threaded all the way through, and then the last thread is swaged so that the studs cannot go through. If making your own, you could just stop turning the tap when the end of the tap is flush with the bottom of the nut, but your studs may have a tendency to tighten up in the holes that way.
 
I kind of prefer to tap the hole through and through and peen two peen marks with a pin punch on either side. That will disturb the thread just enough to stop a stud from turning too easily and allow the nut on top to be spun down without turning the stud in the hole. If I do need the stud to ultimately go through I can thread 2 nuts together on the stud and use a wrench to turn the tightened studs to what ever depth I need them to be. Just my thoughts and how I do them.

Bob
 
Ok noob question. I am going to be making a dozen or more tee nuts and clamping bars here. The others I had went through... is there a reason for not going through and using the bottom of the t slot to snug on?
I am using an old 1800 pound south bend vertical mill if that. Is important.

Thanks!

Rich
 
I have used both types, and I do not see a physical problem with the bottom of the slot stopping the stud, but my personal preference is for the bottom thread to be swaged so that the stud cannot go all the way through. If the stud goes all the way through, and tightens against the bottom of the t-slot, you have to get the stud to loosen (not just the nut) if you want to move the entire assembly for some reason.
 
Having the bottom thread of the nut peened is to prevent the stud from going through the nut and contacting the bottom of the 'T' slot, thus jacking the 'T' nut up. Being overly agressive with an un-peened nut can cause breakout of the 'T' slot.
I've seen suggested using a hard ball bearing ball to peen the bottom threads. I used the punch method previously mentioned on the ones I made.
Chuck
 
terrywerm said:
I have used both types, and I do not see a physical problem with the bottom of the slot stopping the stud, but my personal preference is for the bottom thread to be swaged so that the stud cannot go all the way through. If the stud goes all the way through, and tightens against the bottom of the t-slot, you have to get the stud to loosen (not just the nut) if you want to move the entire assembly for some reason.
Click to expand...

I have seen an entire T-slot broken off of a table from the stud driving down and ripping the T-slot right up. Nice little Atlas Horizontal Mill. I know it was no Bridgeport, with beefier table, but still a shame.

Bernie
 
Keeping the studs in good shape will help to not jam them when tightening the nuts and of course use washers. I'm not one to over tighten. I was a big guy and it would tick me off when I would have break down a set-up and the nuts were so tight I would have to use a pipe :angry: If you have a good set-up there is no need to over tighten the nuts.
 
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