Making the joint for a lathe countershaft tension linkage?

Aaron_W

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I've got a very nice Rivett 608 lathe, but it is missing the factory drive system. Rivett offered a variable speed underdrive or an overhead shaft drive. What I have is a homebuilt rear drive like you would find on an Atlas or South Bend benchtop lathe.

While not factory it was fairly well done except for the tension linkage which was literally just to jam a rod between the lathe and counter shaft assembly, this was clearly meant as a temporary solution for an unfinished project.

I have a complete counter shaft and linkage assembly from a South Bend 9 which I thought would work, but although this is an 8-1/2" lathe the SB set up is massive in comparison. It is also possible that although advertised as being from a SB9 it actually came from a larger lathe. It would take a great deal of work to make it work, requiring more than half the parts to be replaced, and would end up making the lathes footprint very deep.

Plan B is to reuse the existing countershaft but make my own linkage to lock it in place. Advantage is that it fits the lathe and has powered it before, it also results in a footprint at least a foot narrower that using the SB part.


The tricky part is how to make the locking mechanism. There is no physical lock, these seem to rely on leverage, so that when pushed to lock position it holds, but when the lever is pulled back the "knee" breaks allowing the linkage to bend. I can not find anything explaining how the geometry works so that I might be able to make one.

Last resort would be to make some sort of twist lock, but if possible I'd really make something that just relies on the position of the lever.

I suppose I could use the one from the SB counter shaft, but I hate to cannibalize a complete unit for just the one part.


Has anyone ever made one of these or have a good idea how it is done?


Example of what I'm referring to, the lever and rod in the foreground. BTW looking at the photo I'm further convinced the unit I have came from something larger than a SB9.

1681094338400.png
 
I think that linkage was used on 9" SBs, not any larger ones.
 
The "knee break" thing is called a toggle. Easy to make yourself with adjustable turnbuckles or similar
Perfect home project
 
Also called an "over center" mechanism. The handle rotates the push rod goes straight in line, and then the lever rotates a little bit further. That going past the straight position locks the mechanism and it can't back off spontaneously.
 
Ok, so it sounds like the shape doesn't have to be too precise, so if I just copy the shape of the lever fairly closely it should be good enough?
 
The critical element is that the adjustable rod is below the pivot point where the handle pivots when engaged and above the pivot point when disengaged... this allows the tension to hold the handle in the engaged position.

If that makes sense...

-Bear
 
The critical element is that the adjustable rod is below the pivot point where the handle pivots when engaged and above the pivot point when disengaged... this allows the tension to hold the handle in the engaged position.

If that makes sense...

-Bear

When I get to tinkering it probably will and I've got examples to look at. I just thought the geometry might be more demanding than it sounds like it is.
 
It's as straightforward as Bear described. I made one for my SB wide 9 which didn't have any drive components with it. Rather than use a turnbuckle and have to cut LH threads, I made one end of the screw captive. That allows me to adjust the tension pretty easily.
IMG_0182.JPG
 
It's an "over center" type of mechanism, if you're googling. The "knee" in the South Bend part bends in one direction, but "locks" at one point in the other direction. If you look carefully, you'll see that it is just past the point where the three pivots are in a straight line. Were the "lock" not there, it would just fall to the bench....

That south bend mechanism is a very good example of how simple such a mechanism can be. It's one of those things that's so simple, it leads one to overthink it. If you're truly stuck (I doubt it), you can mock up that South Bend linkage with two scraps of wood, or anything really.

Within reason, the only critical dimension is at the "knee", that has to lock when it gets past straigth (over center), but ONLY JUST past center. And when I say "critical dimension", it's kinda critical, but I'm talking tape measure tolerances, not micrometers.

The South bend version, with it's inline adjuster- That's very nice, but for the amount it needs to be adjusted it's not really the end of the world to pull out a pin and turn in or out a turn or two... The right/left thread arrangement isn't truly required. One thread at a time is plenty of adjustment "resolution".
 
Knowing the right terms to use helps a lot, over center joint, linkage, tensioner etc is turning up quite a bit of DIY type info.
 
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