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As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time.
It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop.
In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.
We've seen a lot of changes. In March, 4 moderators left to start their own site.
They took some of you with them. So now you have split loyalties. You know who you are.
They didn't like my way of managing this place, and thought they could do better without me.
They didn't. The only thing holding them together is that they hate me.
Their site was down until mid July. That is why I wanted to stay involved on here until they could learn to run this place. But they wanted me to leave right away, without the training part.
Anyway, I have been training VTCNC to run things here. Dabbler is going to learn too.
I feel that they are ready to start taking over the operation.
I will be here to help in case they need, but I don't think they will.
Tony Wells is and will be here also to consult with.
I will be doing backups, upgrades, and installing addons.
Other than that, I don't want to know about this place.
What about the 4 moderators who were disloyal?
I don't care. It isn't my call anymore.
I would think that, rather than fumble, they ought to come back and do good work.
That's up to them. If they want to return to try to lead more members to their site, I am done caring.
I suffered too much aggravation worrying about it. I don't plan to spend any more.
What they do impacts on them. I have my own opinions including those of you who followed them there.
No longer my problem.
I am leaving this place in good operating condition, and financial condition.
Due to my clausing mill have a mt2 spindle, which type of steel should i use make a mt2 solid holder out of? I am also looking to make a ER20 collet for my SB 9A as well. Should i harden the solid holder as well?
Ease of machining and availability would be: steels: 1215, 12L14, 11L17 and 1144(stressproof), SS:303, . for hardening:O-1.
There are many other choices but may be hard to find and expensive.
If you get into hardening you have to worry about distortion after the hardening process.
It's not that easy. You ought to be able to find it annealed. 4140 is not like carbon steel, it needs to soak (be held at temp) for specific times (possibly hours) for each operation, and case hardening needs the same temps as any other hardening. I bought some 4140 flame cut drops, they were diamond hard (so to speak) I couldn't hack saw them. I built a charcoal fire in my grill, put the two pieces (3/4 by 3/4 by 12 ") in and let it burn out. cooled overnight. I could then cut it with high speed steel but it wore the cutter pretty quickly. Once it's annealed (Half Hard) its still RC 30 or so.
Good, sharp HHS tools are all you need.
My lathe is a combo Grizz with only 3/4 Hp and it cuts rifle barrels, etc with little effort. I don't go crazy with feed or depth-of-cut.
4140 actually is easier to machine than 1018, in my experience.
Here's a coincidence- look at the date you joined here. then look at my date.....