This is my officail new equipment introduction thread. The Machine is my well used Induma 1-S Mill. I've got a lot of pics for you and I'll tell you what I know (or think I know). BTW, I'm a total machining noob, never machined anything in my life until I bought my lathe last year so I'm very open to constructive criticisms!
So I drove 2 hours to Rochester, NY to pick this machine up. It's got a few little gremlins but I think I can sort them all out eventually.
It came wired for 3 phase. I added the VFD since I don't have 3-phase at my house. It's set to start up in 3 sec and shut down that fast. I think I'll speed up the shutdown so I can use it for power tapping ( .5 sec?). I also wired the VFD to the drum switch but its not working. The parameters are set and the wires run but it doesn't respond, support ticket submitted.
Like my VFD support arm? I made it out of wood temporarily until I can make a better one out of metal. I think that design is good as it will let me reposition the VFD anywhere and move the whole mill arm If needed without messing up the VFD.
I've already had the step pulley section off because the low gear lockout would not release. Some dummy pounded on the top and peened the sleeve until it wouldn't move (then pounded some more to make it move when he wanted it to.) I pulled the sleeve out, chucked it up on the lathe (for holding only),marked it with a sharpie about 1/2" from the peened end and very gently filed it until the file didn't reveal any high spots. Now it slides in and out effortlessly by hand. While I had it apart I noticed the two bearing were crunchy, so I replaced them. Now it runs but has a slight clunky sound at high speed but not low, gotta sort that out.... 
Someone replaced 2 of the ball ends with those chunks of white plastic (delrin?) So I'm gonna make a couple new ones.
Also gonna replace the sleeves on 2 of the hand crank wheels
Need to replace the fine feed hand wheel (missing ), I know everyone says they never us it but I have this disease for making things right, just because! Also the cap for the Forward/Reverse auto-quill-feed is missing (shocking I know) and the threads on the shaft it goes on are snapped off. I haven't looked into this too deep because I think I have to take the whole head off to get to that little shaft, I'm hoping I can lathe a new one. for when I replace these.
If anyone has an Induma with the original knob and/or hand wheel, I would love some pictures so I can try to make faithful copies.
It was missing one of the nuts for the tilt on the head (you can see the temporary replacement there, gonna make a now one on my new mill!)
The auto feed is a lost cause, someone broke the casting and welded it back together (crooked, so it binds!) so now you can't raise the gear lever to the top 3 speeds since the booger weld is in the way. Also the feed is 3-phase and I don't want to put another VFD on there just for that. A new Chinese power feed is only $150 so I'll cut my losses on that part (plenty more to fix and keep me busy).
No pic, but the coolant pump was not known to work or not and I have no way to test it without another VFD (3-phase again), so I'm just gonna buy a new 110v version.
The motor was missing one of the mounting nuts so I'm working on making a new one now. Wierdly, most of the nuts on this thing take SAE wrenches but the nuts here are M12x2.0! So it's a confused machine!
The quill feed handle is missing the bolt that retains it. Interestingly this thread is 5/16! This is my next lathe project! If anyone has a machine with the original bolt could you share me a pic of it?
Head Tilt - the head won't tilt. I loosen the nuts and try to turn the screw but It only moves a degree or so before it locks right up. I think the t-bolts were over-tightened and were pulled through (the 2 on the left stick out 1/4" more than on the left), I've seen a post about this before, so when i take the head off to fix the fine feed shaft I will do this too probably.
It came with a Bridgeport vice that has seen better days but I think I can clean it up and make it work (new jaws, paint job)
The only check that it came with in a jacobs chuck that has been welded to the R-8 spindle. I chucked up an endmill and indicated it for .002 run-out. The chuck seems to be out b/c I got the same going off the chuck. Not sure if it is the chuck mount or the draw-bar.
The Draw-bar is visibly bent. You really see it when the machine is running and you watch the cap of the draw-bar. I'm not sure if I can make a new one accurate enough or if I have to order one, what do you guys think?
The 'spindle mount'? (where the spindles insert) is supposed to have a pin to keep the spindle from spinning when in use. (I think) If so, then that pin is gone, since I can turn the spindle by hand until the draw bar is tightened. Can I still use collets in there until I get it fixed?
Another note is that one of the previous owners greased everything that has a ball oiler on it. Any good ways to remove the ball oilers to clean them without taking apart the whole machine? I cleaned a ton of grease out of the pulley section when I had it apart but I can't get enough pressure on my oiler to get oil into most of the ports.
Any thoughts on how I check if the pressure oiler is working?
Thanks for reading all this, Your thoughts are appreciated!
So I drove 2 hours to Rochester, NY to pick this machine up. It's got a few little gremlins but I think I can sort them all out eventually.
It came wired for 3 phase. I added the VFD since I don't have 3-phase at my house. It's set to start up in 3 sec and shut down that fast. I think I'll speed up the shutdown so I can use it for power tapping ( .5 sec?). I also wired the VFD to the drum switch but its not working. The parameters are set and the wires run but it doesn't respond, support ticket submitted.
Like my VFD support arm? I made it out of wood temporarily until I can make a better one out of metal. I think that design is good as it will let me reposition the VFD anywhere and move the whole mill arm If needed without messing up the VFD.
I've already had the step pulley section off because the low gear lockout would not release. Some dummy pounded on the top and peened the sleeve until it wouldn't move (then pounded some more to make it move when he wanted it to.
) I pulled the sleeve out, chucked it up on the lathe (for holding only),marked it with a sharpie about 1/2" from the peened end and very gently filed it until the file didn't reveal any high spots. Now it slides in and out effortlessly by hand. While I had it apart I noticed the two bearing were crunchy, so I replaced them. Now it runs but has a slight clunky sound at high speed but not low, gotta sort that out.... Someone replaced 2 of the ball ends with those chunks of white plastic (delrin?) So I'm gonna make a couple new ones.
Also gonna replace the sleeves on 2 of the hand crank wheels
Need to replace the fine feed hand wheel (missing
), I know everyone says they never us it but I have this disease for making things right, just because! Also the cap for the Forward/Reverse auto-quill-feed is missing (shocking I know) and the threads on the shaft it goes on are snapped off. I haven't looked into this too deep because I think I have to take the whole head off to get to that little shaft, I'm hoping I can lathe a new one. for when I replace these.If anyone has an Induma with the original knob and/or hand wheel, I would love some pictures so I can try to make faithful copies.
It was missing one of the nuts for the tilt on the head (you can see the temporary replacement there, gonna make a now one on my new mill!)
The auto feed is a lost cause, someone broke the casting and welded it back together (crooked, so it binds!) so now you can't raise the gear lever to the top 3 speeds since the booger weld is in the way. Also the feed is 3-phase and I don't want to put another VFD on there just for that. A new Chinese power feed is only $150 so I'll cut my losses on that part (plenty more to fix and keep me busy
).No pic, but the coolant pump was not known to work or not and I have no way to test it without another VFD (3-phase again), so I'm just gonna buy a new 110v version.
The motor was missing one of the mounting nuts so I'm working on making a new one now. Wierdly, most of the nuts on this thing take SAE wrenches but the nuts here are M12x2.0!
So it's a confused machine! The quill feed handle is missing the bolt that retains it. Interestingly this thread is 5/16! This is my next lathe project! If anyone has a machine with the original bolt could you share me a pic of it?
Head Tilt - the head won't tilt. I loosen the nuts and try to turn the screw but It only moves a degree or so before it locks right up. I think the t-bolts were over-tightened and were pulled through (the 2 on the left stick out 1/4" more than on the left), I've seen a post about this before, so when i take the head off to fix the fine feed shaft I will do this too probably.
It came with a Bridgeport vice that has seen better days but I think I can clean it up and make it work (new jaws, paint job)
The only check that it came with in a jacobs chuck that has been welded
to the R-8 spindle. I chucked up an endmill and indicated it for .002 run-out. The chuck seems to be out b/c I got the same going off the chuck. Not sure if it is the chuck mount or the draw-bar.The Draw-bar is visibly bent. You really see it when the machine is running and you watch the cap of the draw-bar. I'm not sure if I can make a new one accurate enough or if I have to order one, what do you guys think?
The 'spindle mount'? (where the spindles insert) is supposed to have a pin to keep the spindle from spinning when in use. (I think) If so, then that pin is gone, since I can turn the spindle by hand until the draw bar is tightened. Can I still use collets in there until I get it fixed?
Another note is that one of the previous owners greased everything that has a ball oiler on it. Any good ways to remove the ball oilers to clean them without taking apart the whole machine? I cleaned a ton of grease out of the pulley section when I had it apart but I can't get enough pressure on my oiler to get oil into most of the ports.
Any thoughts on how I check if the pressure oiler is working?
Thanks for reading all this, Your thoughts are appreciated!
