Metal Scraping, Why and How-To

Oh I'm no scraper. But it is a skill I fully intend to learn in the next year. At least to the extent where I can practice and know what to do and what order to do it all in. I agree with the art aspect. When a man can take a machined surface and make it better, with the power of his own arms, and make it look so pretty, brother thats special and to be respected. We got brand new mills in school and the scrapping are by far the nicest looking part.
 
Oh I'm no scraper. But it is a skill I fully intend to learn in the next year. At least to the extent where I can practice and know what to do and what order to do it all in. I agree with the art aspect. When a man can take a machined surface and make it better, with the power of his own arms, and make it look so pretty, brother thats special and to be respected. We got brand new mills in school and the scrapping are by far the nicest looking part.

What mills did you get? Most mills (including Bridgeports) aren't scraped. Their flaked, creating oil pockets.

After your done using them, you HAVE to clean the ways and re-oil them if they have flaking. Flaking keeps oil....but it also holds in grit and dirt. Increasing the wear in the ways....
 
Yea you could be right there. They are sharps. The table and all are flaked. They look really good. I have a bridgeport that I intend to scrap some day.
 
Yea you could be right there. They are sharps. The table and all are flaked. They look really good. I have a bridgeport that I intend to scrap some day.

Scraping a Bport would be a good project. I'd like to do it, but I'm lost on how to keep the X and Y axis perfectly perpendicular. And how I do I know the column is perfectly vertical? Or should I not worry about that and just worry about keeping the dovetails straight with a dovetail-o-meter?
 
Andre,

Good post, I just signed up for Richards class in KC.
I have all the tools, but little knowledge of what to do with them.

I have a small project that I am about to start once I get Richards DVD.

Something I don't think I can mess up, if I don't get it write the first time.

Chuck,
I know that Orlando would be a long drive, but you should join us for the KC class. I plan on driving up and over. So I can bring all the tools and get Richards advice on a plan of attack.


toolman_ar
 
Best I can tell you would lay the column down on it's back and level the non bearing flats between the ways. Then scrap the way's level to that. But I really dont know for sure. These are things I need to learn. I intend to cut my teeth on straight edge and the like, then my 9x20 lathe, then to the BP. Cost to much to ruin a BP column trying to learn.

If this class was in winter it would be a possibility. But I run a landscape company and it simply wont happen. Way to much grass to cut this time of year to take a week off
 
Chuck,

I understand, but just incase the dates are October 24, 25, & 26th.

We need a few more hands to make it work.

My plans are to start out on a 2" square bar.

I look forward to learning how to properly make a flat bearing surface.


toolman_ar
 
Chuck,

I understand, but just incase the dates are October 24, 25, & 26th.

We need a few more hands to make it work.

My plans are to start out on a 2" square bar.

I look forward to learning how to properly make a flat bearing surface.


toolman_ar
. Brayers- rubber ink spreaders for artists- try art or hobby supply stores. Note; must be flat and "just right" soft. Examine old or used ones carefully. ....BLJHB
 
I have scraped a few machines to get where it was not practical to grind or machine and have had very good results but if machined right I have not seen where scrapping is needed. I have a hard time with flaking part of it because all it does is limit surface contact which glides easy but also can chatter more and wear quicker like a golf ball surface. I dont know I am up in the air about it I read this and thought I would share he has some good points to keep in mind ideas and opinions can go either way there is good and bad to everything I guess.

The scraping process is incredibly crude, and totally incapable of producing anything like a smooth surface or precision flatness. It is simply impossible for that process alone to produce the result desired.

The scraper gouges a swath of material away. The scraper is not flat on the end, so the gouge it produces is rounded. The resulting surface is therefore a series of gouges, in a random pattern and of random depth.

You cannot simply scrape a surface flat. End of story.

Because of that, scraping is inevitably associated with various other items besides the scraper. These are necessary to correct the horrible distortions of the surface which the scraping process produces if uncorrected.

That is the secret of how the scraping process ends up with a flat surface.... The extra equipment tells you where to apply the incredibly crude process, and where NOT to. By correctly following the directions given by the comparison straightedge etc, as shown by the blue (or red, etc) spotting material, you can remove the high spots, and bring the surface down to where the "surface" is a series of flat spots with the "residual gouges" between them.

The net result is a surface defined by those flat spots, which is as flat and planar as your comparison device is. If the straightedge is curved, you can scrape a very accurate curve to match, but never a flat surface.

Luckily, geometry allows the creation of a flat surface of any desired flatness by the principle that if A=B, and B=C, and C=A, then A=B=C. A may have a curve "up" , and B may have a matching curve down, but C cannot then match both. Only when all are flat can C match A and A match B AND B match C.

A side note:
The existence of scraping marks on a machine may either mean that scraping was used to bring the machine into alignment, OR that someone made marks all over the surfaces in order to make you assume that a proper re-alignment was done.

This is usually obvious when a surface with visible linear wear marks also has "Nike swoop" marks on it that cut across the wear marks...... Most of the tricksters don't put a full surface of scraping marks on... that would be too much like work. They are satisfied with crude "flaking" to fool the unwary.
 
If you have or borrow an old- old beginning machinist's instruction book. Further on in it you wil be
instructed in the making of a surface plate, or we should say, three- because there is no other way
except to make three cast iron plates, planed flat, one blued, rubbed, and one of the other two scraped. The third one is rubbed and scraped and the process in irregular order until there are three perfect. Have fun! BLJHB
 
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