- Joined
- Aug 7, 2018
- Messages
- 668
Hello Tod,
This is the rear mounted parting tool post that I made for my Myford S7LB Lathe.
It is absolutely nothing special. Just a chunk of cast iron round bar I found in my local scrapyard.
I put it in the mill vise and fly cut one side flat. OK I know from your posts that you don't have a mill.
So I would just clamp it onto the cross slide make sure that it was square to the chuck and use a fly cutter to make a flat face.
Originally I was going to make it a square block, but after I had cut a second side, I realised that I didn't need to.
I made the key at the bottom to fit into one of the "T" slots. The worst job was drilling the long hole to take the M8 securing bolt.
I drilled as deep as I could with a standard drill and finished the hole with a "D" bit. The post is way too long, I should have cut about 1.5" off it.
The slot for the blade was also machined with a fly cutter. The two taper pins that hold the blade were both turned and threaded on the lathe.
The tapers grip the edge of the blade very securely. The idea behind using tapers was because it allowed me to get right up to the chuck jaws without anything in the way. I can get within 2 mm, and if I push the blade out a little, actually touch the face of them.
This is the rear mounted parting tool post that I made for my Myford S7LB Lathe.
It is absolutely nothing special. Just a chunk of cast iron round bar I found in my local scrapyard.
I put it in the mill vise and fly cut one side flat. OK I know from your posts that you don't have a mill.
So I would just clamp it onto the cross slide make sure that it was square to the chuck and use a fly cutter to make a flat face.
Originally I was going to make it a square block, but after I had cut a second side, I realised that I didn't need to.
I made the key at the bottom to fit into one of the "T" slots. The worst job was drilling the long hole to take the M8 securing bolt.
I drilled as deep as I could with a standard drill and finished the hole with a "D" bit. The post is way too long, I should have cut about 1.5" off it.
The slot for the blade was also machined with a fly cutter. The two taper pins that hold the blade were both turned and threaded on the lathe.
The tapers grip the edge of the blade very securely. The idea behind using tapers was because it allowed me to get right up to the chuck jaws without anything in the way. I can get within 2 mm, and if I push the blade out a little, actually touch the face of them.