Milling Rite

Ischgl99 said:
I did some more searching and couldn’t find anyone that sells a 12dp 2:1 in a 32/16, but looking at the Boston Gear catalog again, the 12dp 36/18 might fit. Before you put everything together, can you check and see if you can fit a gear with an OD of 3.1”?
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I'm pretty sure that I can; the stock gear is 2.75-ish and there's room to adjust things.

Ischgl99 said:
I eliminated those the first time thinking they were too big, but if the gear will fit, it might be a solution. The pinion would need to be further back and instead of adding a spacer, might need to turn the hub shorter. Same with the gear. The part numbers are L152BY-G and -P.
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I think that's what would be required. I'll look the dimensions up and see if it's easier than the ones I already have. Thank you!!
 
The things you find when you clean up the elevator screw...

Pictured: The things I found when I cleaned up the elevator screw.

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Looks like they never lubricated it. Probably want to check the nut in the base and see how bad that is.
 
Pictured: Nut threads.

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It's ugly, but it's not so terrible...which is the same thing that I say about my croissants, coincidentally. It's mostly just really rough...but it seems to fit okay. I need to work on the end of the screw, though; it's peined over and distorted just enough to prevent the nut from functioning. And it's not just a slight stickiness: it's a HARD stop. I can kind of see where the threads and the end of the screw itself are distorted; someone's been into this part of it, as well.
 
That is ugly, hopefully the screw cleans up well enough. It seems they took the entire machine apart…
 
Ischgl99 said:
That is ugly, hopefully the screw cleans up well enough. It seems they took the entire machine apart…
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The screw isn't terrible; the worst of it is what I already pictured. Here's the end of it that won't pass through the nut:

Pictured: Even my croissants aren't this bad.

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Some of that is actually from me; there were some sharp burrs on the end from what looks like a grinder cut, so I just gave them a few passes with a file to reduce the injury potential. Same goes for that last thread in the 7:00 position; it had some nasty edges that have already sliced me...so it got a quick lick as well. I don't know who did the cut on this, but it may have always been that way...or this may be a replacement screw that someone made. Either way, it's not necessary for me to do a lot of repair here, unless I just want to do so; this part of the screw never really contacts any portion of the nut; it's about an inch away at maximum upward travel. That said, I would like to fix it; it'd be an excuse to chuck the screw into the lathe and trim the end... except that I don't have those tools yet. And the T-nut that I ordered for the upcoming toolpost only sort of fits...so that was kind of a disappointing discovery. And I think the compound is semi-smurfed...so I guess that's another thread I get to start.
 
I think that is a good plan, a nice chamfer on the end should help. I have not had mine apart that far, so not sure what mine looks like, but I agree with you that it looks like someone might have made a replacement.
 
Ischgl99 said:
I think that is a good plan, a nice chamfer on the end should help. I have not had mine apart that far, so not sure what mine looks like, but I agree with you that it looks like someone might have made a replacement.
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It's just so... unfinished...and that's puzzling. Like, it's perfectly serviceable and it'll work just fine until it either doesn't or I decide I want to upgrayedd it...but it's just really puzzling. Here's my question: how are some parts of this mill - like the slideways, for example - so clean, yet other parts are just so rough and unkept? The only thing I can come up with it that despite the deplorable condition of the inner knee bits, this thing really wasn't used much; maybe something broke and it sat idle for years, until someone repaired it with what I've found and put it back to work. That's just a theory, but it would account for several curious facts.

Weldingrod1 said:
You -could- go fancy and put a Higbee on the end to get rid of the easy to damage tapered thread
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That's interesting...and I now have more than one set of threads to repair: I just realized that the threaded end of the elevator screw that holds the gear in place is also smurfed, which is why it was so hard to remove the retaining nut; heretofore, I thought it was just the nut itself that was at fault. I might be able to chase the threads on both, though; I know I can fix the nut, but the bad thread on the screw is the very end one, so it might be hard to start a tap on it.
 
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