Milling Vise for Grizzly G0755?

I just installed a Shar's 5" 550V vise on my G0755. I used the middle slot in the table and could not get to the back side of the vise keys I was step cutting down to 1/2" (actually .544") from 5/8". I may have to switch from the middle to the outside table slot for some work. I like the 5" and would not want a 6" vise hanging off the front of the table. By the way the keys on the bottom of that vise were so hard it just destroyed my new HSS end mill, I used a 1/4" shank carbide bur and that cut away at the key, after I tried to file the sharp edges and all the file would do is slide across the key, man they are hard.
 
I just installed a Shar's 5" 550V vise on my G0755. I used the middle slot in the table and could not get to the back side of the vise keys I was step cutting down to 1/2" (actually .544") from 5/8". I may have to switch from the middle to the outside table slot for some work. I like the 5" and would not want a 6" vise hanging off the front of the table. By the way the keys on the bottom of that vise were so hard it just destroyed my new HSS end mill, I used a 1/4" shank carbide bur and that cut away at the key, after I tried to file the sharp edges and all the file would do is slide across the key, man they are hard.
I have a grizzly 0755 with a 5" vice and took the swivel base off and had to mount the vice inbetween the front two table slots, using some hold downs
hope this helps
 
So how do you like that vise? Does it have ACME or threaded rod? How is it for squareness etc?


Ray

I just installed a Shar's 5" 550V vise on my G0755. I used the middle slot in the table and could not get to the back side of the vise keys I was step cutting down to 1/2" (actually .544") from 5/8". I may have to switch from the middle to the outside table slot for some work. I like the 5" and would not want a 6" vise hanging off the front of the table. By the way the keys on the bottom of that vise were so hard it just destroyed my new HSS end mill, I used a 1/4" shank carbide bur and that cut away at the key, after I tried to file the sharp edges and all the file would do is slide across the key, man they are hard.
 
Ray, I finally remembered to look at the threads on the vise so I could answer your question. You can not see any part of the threads, the threaded part of the rod is always inside the bottom tube of the moveable jaw from closed to max open. As far as being square everything looks really good when running the dial indicator across all the machined surfaces. The only thing that was disappointing was the wrench that came with the vise it was very sloppy in the swivel, I know it is not a big deal but it bothered me so I pressed out the pin re-drilled the yoke to 7/16" and the handle to just under that added a shim between the handle and the yoke and pressed a piece of a 7/16" bolt shank cut to length with beveled ends back in. Now it swivels good and it is not all sloppy. I know it is not the best vise out there but it is not the worst, it cost $235 for the vise and $69 for the swivel base, with shipping it was $338.
 
My grizzly 5 inch vice with swivel base was 167.95 from grizzly. i threw out the little blocks because they were a joke. took off the swivel, and mounted the vice be careful not to cut yourself on the razor sharp edges of the jaws. used a stone to cut down the edges so no one will get cut again. I guess you get what you pay for.
I am saving up for a kurt vice.
jon
 
My grizzly 5 inch vice with swivel base was 167.95 from grizzly. i threw out the little blocks because they were a joke. took off the swivel, and mounted the vice be careful not to cut yourself on the razor sharp edges of the jaws. used a stone to cut down the edges so no one will get cut again. I guess you get what you pay for.
I am saving u

I just put a Kurt DX6 on a G0755. It's gigantic. Maybe too big. I'll probably add a spacer to the fixed jaw. As it is, the y-axis limit prevents me from getting close to the fixed jaw. Bolting it to the next T-slot requires additional hardware because so much of the vise is hanging off the table. Compare, below, 3" no-name vise with the 6" Kurt.

mil_w_3in_vise.jpg mill_w_dx6.jpg

The Kurt 6-in vise will probably work out. It's better in every way. It's Class 40 cast iron, which is stronger and can be hardened. The 100-$ vise off the amazon is not hardened and arrived in bad shape. I probably put 8 hours into deburring and scraping it flat/parallel. Very satisfying project and I learned a lot but even with TLC, the chinesium vise won't live up to the authentic article.

If I were buying again, a 5" vise might be a better choice.

I looked at Winn vises but they're not able to get the castings anymore. The only USA source of castings may have an exclusive deal with Suburban tool. Suburban tool looks fine but their web site is terrible. If it were 1985, I'd call and read off my credit card to a sales girl and get the shipping cost off the package when it arrived 2 weeks later. But this is 2021. So I bought a Kurt vise from MSC. It was on my doorstep the next morning and shipping was 40 $.
 
Holy Necro-post-batman!

That said, IMO, you are probably better off buying one of the really good 4" CNC style vises for that mill.(like the DX4). They can be more expensive, but are probably the right size for something like that.

I had a Burke Millrite (quite a bit bigger than that, but smaller than a Bridgeport), and often found the 6" Kurt to be too big.
 
Well I'll consider this topic re-opened, and voice my opinion on the matter. I had a 6" vise on an 8"x29" table and found it to be a gigantic hassle. I replaced it with a 4" vise and am happy as a clam. It can hold larger work just fine, and it's not in the way of everything. The only niggle I have is that I haven't been able to source manufactured 4" parallels to use in it. But the 6 inchers work fine, and I can always get a hold of them. Here's a 7" piece of stock on its way to becoming tee nuts.
 

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