Extremely Cool! Love the Z axis encoder setup. How do you handle the other two axis? Any chance of your sharing the schematics and parts lists?
I've got a couple of old tape measures that I'm willing to sacrifice ;^)
Thank you. This will take a little bit of study and decision making. Haven't dealt with electronics of this type since the mid '80s
when I was monitoring banks of soil testing apparatuses (apparati? apparatus?) using Commodore 64's for data collection.
I'm not used to this new-fangled gadgetry you youngsters are using these days. But seriously, I'd really like to play around with
the Arduino's and this could be a good starting point. Thanks again and keep on swarfing.
As a NOB I hate asking for something my very first post but.... I'm very interested in building the MillDROZ project. I have a few encoders on the shelf so I'm part way there already. I downloaded the MillDROZ.txt file and cut and pasted it into Arduino IDE and it wouldn't even try to compile. Something is being lost in translation. Would it be possible to get a copy of the .ino file emailed to me so I can see if that will fly.
Sure Jerry, I will try posting the ino file again, but .ino files are not allowed. Renamed it again to .txt. You have to rename it to .ino and place it on a folder named MillDroZ under your working arduino folders.
I've just compiled the code on Arduino 1.6.4; works ok.
For a 600 ppr encoder connected directly to a 5 mm pitch screw, you will have 2400 pulses per revolution (600 ppr * 4 interruptions per pulse). To read 500 (5.00 mm) on the display, use the factor 0.2083333 on the code. (500/(600*4))
I have the iGaging scales on the X and Y of my Mini Mill and have picked up a third for the Z. I love having the DROs but I’m not a fan of the displays. With no backlight I find that if I’m not looking straight on to them they are hard to read (getting old?). I was thinking I could try to rework Yuriy's sketch to work with an LED display and use a Nano for each axis. I wouldn’t have to change anything if I could convince my wife she needed a new tablet but she won’t budge.
So. The big ask. Would you be willing to share your sketch for the iGaging scales?
Wagner you are my new super hero. Thanks for this I tried calculating how much time this is going to save me but I think I’d need a spreadsheet. I’d found a sketch I was trying to rework that used a LCD keypad shield that only went to 2 decimal points. The sketch looked to be well commented but was in Romanian and Google translate can only do so much . . . .
Now if I can only manage to get some shop time in I’m laughing. I’ll post my progress.
My lesson for today was “don’t buy cheap breadboard jumpers”. My wife said I was clear to go hide in the dungeon so I got the circuit together on a breadboard. Built up the 3.3v supply using an LM317 (what I had on hand) and was having a devil of a time getting the display to stabilize. Tore it down and rewired everything and it started working. At this point the breadboard was such a mess I couldn’t get to the “zero” button so I did a cleanup using shorter jumpers. I was back to the display running all over the place. In the end it some of these jumpers I’d picked up cheap as dirt and as it turns out that is about all they are worth. Rewired the circuit again this time just using the 3.3v supply on the Arduino and its working great. The refresh rate looks to be much faster than the stock iGaging display which is a bonus. All the cheap jumpers had round ends so I’ve sorted them out of my wire bin and after checking trashed the lot of them.
Thanks again for posting this, it’s a great project.
No worries. I had the scale upside down so the cord wouldn’t hit the breadboard. And those jumpers are now resting comfortably in the wire recycling bin at work . . . . you know . . save the whales and all that